Car charger for mobile phone from cigarette lighter. Charger for phone from cigarette lighter on MC34063 Homemade charger for phone in car
Buy ready-made charging to the phone not interested). Make with your own hands much more interesting, especially since such a simple and reliable device has already been tested. And she didn’t want to borrow the cigarette lighter. I found out about such a thing as KR142EN5A. Advantages of this microcircuit:
- Allowable output current 1A
- No external components required
- Internal thermal protection
- Output transistor protection
- Internal short circuit current limitation
The input voltage is up to 20 V, and the output is always 5 V. Actually, this is what is needed in order to reliably charge the phone battery. There is nothing complicated about assembly. We solder four wires to the circuit (we solder two terminals to the central leg - this will be “ground”). The left terminal is input “+”, the central one is ground, the right terminal is output “+”.
I had an old broken charger, I cut off the plug from it and soldered it to the microcircuit.” +" plug to the "+" output from KR142EN5A, and "-" plug to the ground of the circuit. It turns out that there is a common ground wire for the input and output. In the car I dragged the wires to a convenient place where the phone is always kept, and connected permanently via a button). I pressed the button, inserted the plug into the phone and started charging). Here I am posting photos...
But then I had to improve the circuit a little, since familiar “minds” recommended installing two 1000 uF capacitors. The result is this diagram. I recommend installing the condensers right away, although everything worked without them... And placing the microcircuit itself on a small radiator (just to be sure)
The MC34063 is a popular IC for designing small transformerless voltage converter circuits. It is universal because it can be used to make step-up, step-down and inverting DC-DC voltage converters. The range of input and output voltages makes it easy to assemble a number of voltage converters based on this microcircuit at minimal cost, which are indispensable in everyday life.
Of course, all these designs can be bought in China, ready-made, but we won’t talk about that today; you can buy everything in China, but it’s more interesting to do it yourself.
We will consider the design of a step-down voltage converter, the input of which can be supplied with a voltage from 5/6 to 40 Volts, while the output voltage will always remain stable at 5 Volts. All mobile phones, tablets, some players and players are charged from 5 Volts.
The microcircuit is widely popular among radio amateurs precisely because it costs a penny and contains minimal wiring.
Inductor, rectifier diode (Schottky) and several passive components. The output voltage may be different; there are a lot of programs and formulas for calculating inverters on this chip. The output voltage depends on the ratio of resistors R3/R2.
The diode, in principle, is also not critical and you can take ordinary pulse ones, from the FR/UF/HER/SF line, etc.
A diode is needed with a current higher than 1.5 Amps, preferably 3, since the output current from the microcircuit can reach up to 1.5 Amps. The inductor itself is wound on a ferrite dumbbell, or a ring can be used, the winding is wound with 0.6-0.8 mm wire and consists of 15-20 turns. You can take a ready-made inductor from some computer power supplies.
Capacitor C1 is responsible for the operating frequency of the generator built into the chip; it is recommended to run the chip at frequencies of 40-60 kHz.
By the way, single-ended transformer voltage converters are also implemented on this microcircuit to obtain a wider range of output voltage and provide galvanic isolation. In this case, the power can also be increased, because in this case the output of the microcircuit is amplified by a powerful transistor.
Many modern cars have modules with several USB outputs for power. By and large, several USB sockets are necessary in any car, because you often have to charge your phone, tablet, camera, and you also need to connect a navigator and recorder.
It's high time to make a neat panel with USB sockets in your car. And assembling it yourself is not at all difficult and not expensive, even for .
To assemble a USB power supply you will need at a minimum:
- microcircuit voltage stabilizer 5 V;
- two capacitors: both 25 V or only one and the other 10 V (the values of the capacitor capacitances depend on the selected stabilizer and will be determined later);
- 1 A semiconductor diode;
- socket types: 1USB-A or 2USB-A;
- connecting wires of small cross-section - no more than 0.5 mm2.
Microcircuit stabilizers voltages for assembling a USB power supply are preferable because they:
- capable of operating within a wide range of input voltages 7 – 20 V;
- have an overcurrent protection system;
- equipped with an overheating protection system, which limits the output current when the microcircuit crystal heats up.
One USB connector can be powered from a 78L05 stabilizer: Imax =0.1 A, Pmax =0.5 W, TO-92 housing.
Two or more USB connectors must be connected to power from 78M05 or 7805 stabilizers.
The 78M05 microcircuit has the following characteristics: Imax = 0.5 A, Pmax = 7.5 W, housing TO-202 or TO-220.
Chip 7805: Imax =1.5 A, Pmax =10 W, TO-220 package.
Series 78 stabilizers are manufactured in a package that makes them look like transistors.
The pinout for microcircuits 78M05 and 7805 is as follows:
- the first pin on the left is the input (if you look at the body from the marking side);
- average – general;
- the third is the exit.
The 78L05 microcircuits have the opposite pinout than the 78M05 and 7805 microcircuits.
When assembling the circuit, you need to take into account that the common pin of microcircuits 78M05 and 7805 is connected to their metal heat sink, so when installing the stabilizer on a radiator, do not short-circuit the remaining elements of the circuit. But it is still advisable to screw the microcircuit to the radiator, because the stabilizer in this case will work better (remember that microcircuit stabilizers limit the current on the load when overheated).
Semiconductor diode needed to limit current surges when switches or relay contacts are turned on, through which a stabilization circuit can be connected.
Capacitors you need to put 10 μF each, and not 47 μF, if you use a less powerful 78L05 stabilizer in the circuit, and not the 78M05 and 7805 microcircuits. In terms of voltage, the capacitors, as mentioned earlier, should be selected for 25 V each, or the output capacitor Can be set to 10 V.
Light-emitting diode It is not required as a power indicator, but it helps to visually determine the presence of voltage at the output and the serviceability of the stabilization circuit.
Resistor It is not necessary to set it to 160 Ohms, because with such a damping resistance the LED may shine too brightly. The quenching resistor can be selected with resistances: 270 Ohm, 300 Ohm, 470 Ohm.
Having assembled the voltage stabilization circuit, you need to connect it to the USB socket: output plus 5 V - to the plus contact of the USB supply voltage; common output to – common contact of the connector.
The pinout of the USB sockets is as follows:
- the first contact on the left is common (if you look at the connector contacts from above);
- the second is a plus data bus;
- the third is a plus data bus;
- the fourth is the plus supply voltage.
Of course, you will not transfer any data using the USB socket as a power source, so do not pay attention to the second and third pins of the connector.
Where to install USB power sockets in a car is a personal decision for each master. But as a recommendation, we can say that it is convenient to place several connectors along with the assembled circuit on a separate panel cut out of a plastic or aluminum plate. You can also install a small switch on this small console that will turn off the voltage at the input of the stabilization circuit. The ready-made socket with USB connectors is very easy to install in a convenient place inside the car.
Simple monoblock car amplifier based on TDA1560Q 
Automotive throttleless power supply based on IRS2153 for laptops and mobile phones
In order to charge any portable device, such as a phone or tablet, from the car’s 12-volt on-board network, you will have to use a DC-DC converter. But it is not necessary to buy an inverter when you can assemble, for example, a very simple design based on the 34063api chip yourself.
The chip is specially designed for this purpose, and many charger manufacturers use it as the main driver in car chargers. It was this microcircuit that became the base for most “chargers” powered by a cigarette lighter.
The microcircuit has a built-in output stage that delivers current up to 3A to the load. Thanks to this, it can be considered universal - it can charge almost any mobile device, including devices with high-capacity batteries, such as tablet computers.
The microcircuit provides a stable output voltage of 5 Volts. It is optimal for recharging the batteries of a wide variety of portable devices. The choke consists of 20 turns of 0.6 mm thick wire wound around a dumbbell. Drops and surges in on-board voltage are not dangerous for the microcircuit, since the input voltage range is from 7 to 40 Volts.
The microcircuit operates stably even with sudden temperature changes and weather changes, without overheating in the process. You can connect 34063api using several schemes. Here is the most reliable option, which is also simple and easy to reproduce.
A particularly valuable quality of this microcircuit is that it is possible to simultaneously connect several mobile phones to the output. At the same time, the quality of charging, even if all models are different, will be no worse than through a standard device. You can also exclude input and output capacitors from the circuit, which are needed only to filter noise.
Modern mobile devices have already become an indispensable part of our lives. First of all, we are talking about phones and tablets. We use them everywhere, at home, on the street, in the car. In the car, they are also supplemented by navigators, video recorders, etc. What is needed for the normal operation of these devices? Of course there is power, because any battery, even a very good one, will eventually run out.
You can buy a ready-made USB charger for everything we use in the car. But there may be problems with the number of sockets, power, etc. As a rule, the charger's power is limited to a current of 0.5 A, although many are written at 1 A, but they are not able to withstand such a current.
As for my particular case, this charger, which is essentially a voltage stabilizer on the 7805 chip, was used to hide it under the instrument panel. As a result, having powered it from the cigarette lighter and hidden it under the instrument panel, only mini USB plugs were brought out to the instrument panel for the navigator and video recorder. This made it possible to provide power to gadgets while leaving the cigarette lighter sockets unoccupied. And perhaps the most important thing is to get rid of the wires that get in the way and their unsightly appearance.
So, in our article we will talk about an alternative, about making your own USB charger for a car based on a microcircuit - stabilizer 7805.
How to make a 1.5 Ampere USB charger in a car with your own hands (Option 1)
The voltage stabilizer of the L7805 series (current 1 A) or its analogue L7805CV (current 1.5 A) will be used as the “heart” of our charger. In fact, there can be a great variety of analogues used. In principle, the entire 7805 series of chips will be suitable for this. We will tell you more about analogues a little later.
The electrical circuit for connecting the stabilizer itself is simple; it is similar to the power stabilizer, which we talked about in our other article “Power stabilizer in a 12-volt car.” We can say that these are brother microcircuits, only their stabilization voltages are different.
Everything can be assembled either by surface mounting or on a board. It can be done on a regular, simple universal circuit board. In order for the microcircuit to develop its maximum supply current, it must be placed on a radiator. In our case, the radiator is taken from a computer processor.
The stabilizer microcircuits themselves can be produced in various packages. Possible housing options and analogues used are shown in the figure below.
Our assembly uses the TO-220 case... It is also possible to use microcircuits with the KIA 7805 index. A more detailed Data sheet for these microcircuits can be viewed.
Connecting a mini and micro USB plug from a charger in a car
After you have assembled the USB device, you need to connect the USB connectors correctly. You can take a wire with a factory-made mini, micro USB plug, or you can buy an “empty” plug in a store and solder the wire to it. The correct connection of different types of USB is shown in the figure below.
In my case, a mini USB plug was needed, which was soldered to the wire. The view is shown without the body.
Then, using a universal device, the voltage was checked again so as not to damage electronic gadgets. And then the battery of the audio player was already charged.
Subsequently, the charger was installed under the instrument panel, and mini USB plugs were brought out: one on the instrument panel for the navigator, the second under the roof for the DVR.
I apologize for the view in the garage.
A 5-volt car charger for a smartphone, navigator, DVR, tablet, built on the principle of PWM modulation (USB) at 4 Amps (Option 2)
However, the saga with the charger did not end there. Again, for a banal reason, when there is not enough supplied power or supply current for consumers, which is essentially the same thing, provided that the on-board voltage in the car is constant, since these values will be directly proportional.
So, during long-term joint use of the navigator and the DVR, one microcircuit was not able to “pull” the power from these two devices, even with a radiator installed. As a result, it overheated and briefly turned off. At the same time, the navigator “cussed” when the power was turned off.
There seem to be two solutions to the problem. The first is to “fence the garden” and create parallel circuits, each of which will have its own consumers. Let's say one is a DVR, the other is a navigator. In fact, in the photo above, where two microcircuits are mounted on one radiator, this is what was done. However, it’s good if everything is limited to this, and if you need to connect a smartphone, tablet, something else... There is no way to do without more serious currents, and therefore without alternative options. An alternative option would be to use microassemblies with PWM modulation. I won’t explain for a long time and in detail what this is, but the principle of all this is based on the fact that current is supplied to the load not constantly, but at a very high frequency. As a result, it becomes possible to reduce the heating of the microcircuit due to the very periods when it “rests”, and the load at such a high frequency perceives the power supply as constant, although it is not so...
So, such a scheme will not require large radiators for heat removal, and rather high currents will be provided. In general, everything will be as we need it. This option will be discussed further below. To reduce the voltage, a microcircuit, an inductor and elements for strapping are used. The microassembly is designated KIS3R33S,
Its installation can be done according to the diagram from Datasheet. However, by default with this configuration it has an output voltage of 3.3 volts, but for USB we need 5 volts.
In this case, it will be necessary to select resistors R1, R2. The table with recommended resistor values on which the supply voltage depends is also taken from the Datasheet. This feature of changing the voltage by selecting resistors makes this device a universal assistant if you need to power the load not only with a voltage of 5 volts as for USB.
It should be noted that this device confidently holds a load with a current consumption of 3A, and peak performance can reach 4A. If you are too lazy to assemble such a device, have no time, or cannot do it, then you can purchase such an assembly for about $2 on well-known sites and online stores.
I must say that this Chinese voltage converter KIS-3R33S (MP2307) is quite good for its price, and is capable of delivering high currents, which we already know, up to 4A. This means that such an assembly can replace a pair of KRENOK or the 7805 series, which we talked about in the first part of the article. At the same time, it will be more compact and with higher efficiency.
So, I bought this assembly. Then I also bought a distribution box, which are used for installing electrical wiring in apartments. This became the body of the converter - charger.
An LED was also attached in order to control whether voltage is supplied to this “box”. You can read about connecting an LED to 12 volts in a car in the article “How to connect an LED to 12 volts”. Everything was then installed under the dash, behind the glove compartment.
Connected to the cigarette lighter. Voltage appears on it only when the ignition is turned on, which is very successful for me.
The wires are still routed to the gadgets.
Now the charger current has increased to 4 Amps, which is still enough.
A special feature of this charger is that it can work both in passenger cars, where the on-board voltage is 12 volts, and in trucks, where it is 24 volts. At the same time, the charger does not require any modification or adjustment.
