How to replace piston rings yourself. How to independently replace oil scraper rings on a VAZ Technology of replacing piston rings
The fact that the car requires replacement of the piston rings, and not some other repair work, will be indicated by the engine itself. The signs of such a malfunction appear quite clearly, so it will be difficult not to notice them. But before we talk about the symptoms, you need to understand what the rings are and what role they play in the operation of the engine.
What are piston rings and their purpose
Piston rings are elastic, open elements that are installed in special grooves on the piston body. They are made of high-strength steel or cast iron, and covered with an alloying material on top. The alloy coating further increases strength and also reduces wear rates.
Typically, 3 rings are inserted into the piston: 2 compression rings (occupying the 2 upper grooves) and 1 oil scraper ring (the lower groove). The purpose of the compression rings is to prevent hot gases from breaking through along the piston into the engine crankcase. Oil scraper - removes excess oil from the cylinder mirror, preventing it from entering the combustion chamber. In addition, the rings reduce the temperature of the piston, transferring almost half of the heat from its surface to the cylinder walls.
When the piston rings no longer cope with the tasks assigned to them due to their wear, the car engine signals this by displaying the corresponding symptoms.
Signs of piston ring wear
Blue or black indicates that wear has reached a critical stage. This indicates that excess oil entered the combustion chamber past the oil scraper ring and burned there along with the fuel. Black smoke coming out of the crankcase ventilation tube indicates that the compression rings, due to wear, allow gases to escape from the combustion chamber into its cavity.
Critical wear is accompanied by a decrease in compression (the ability to maintain pressure) in the engine cylinders. This means that some of the gases formed during the combustion of the fuel mixture, which was supposed to push the piston, broke into the crankcase without performing useful work. This is what will lead to a drop in pressure in the cylinder, therefore, the engine will lose some power. Observed.
A special device - a compression meter. When the nominal pressure values are unknown (there are no operating instructions), it is first measured in a dry cylinder, then a little engine oil is poured through the spark plug hole, and the measurement is made again. If the compression increases, then the rings need to be replaced. Similar signs can be observed in the case of their “occurrence”.
“Sticking” occurs when carbon deposits formed in the piston grooves prevent the piston rings from springing, resulting in a decrease in the tightness of their contact with the cylinder surface.
This problem, if the case is not very advanced, can be corrected with the help of special fuel additives. For an engine with a carburetor system, you can try cleaning it with a carbon remover spray that is injected directly into the carburetor. If removing carbon deposits from the combustion chamber has no effect, then there is only one way out - replacing the piston rings and cleaning the grooves.
How to replace piston rings yourself
Of course, replacing rings is a rather labor-intensive procedure. It requires accuracy and certain skills, but by and large there is nothing complicated about it (unless you remove the engine). To do this you need:
If the wear of the connecting rod bearings allows them to be reused, then there is no need to replace them, since this will require boring the crankshaft journals. You won’t be able to do this kind of work on your own without experience.
Tools required for work
To replace the rings you will need:
- sets of open-end and ring wrenches, as well as wrenches with an extension and heads with a nominal value of 10 – 19;
- torque wrench;
- specialist. crimp (mandrel).
You will also need one that is oil resistant. It will come in handy when installing the oil pan and valve cover gaskets.
And there seems to be nothing complicated in the steps listed above, if the replacement is made without removing the engine from the car. However, there are nuances without which an engine with new rings will not work for a long time. When the cylinder reaches the extreme stage of wear, a “step” is formed on the surface of its mirror. Having hit it, the new ring will either break immediately or get a crack, which will ultimately lead to its failure. In addition, the grooves of the old piston also have wear, so grinding new rings to the cylinder will be difficult or completely impossible. This means that it is better to entrust the troubleshooting of the piston group and cylinders to professionals.
Boring and honing of cylinders should also be carried out by qualified specialists. In addition, this work cannot be done without removing the engine. Therefore, before getting down to business, you should think carefully and realistically assess your strengths and capabilities. So that the result of the repair would not be the replacement of the piston group as a whole, or even worse, it would not be necessary to hand over the engine to.
Oil rings and oil seals are sometimes called the most important parts of an engine. Let's figure out what these parts are, where they are and how they are replaced - so that you can provide first aid to your iron horse at any time.
Getting to know oil scraper rings
So, piston rings, which include oil scraper rings, play a huge role in the design of a vehicle. This set consists of three elements: an upper compression ring, a compression oil scraper ring and a lower oil scraper ring. Many parameters depend on their performance: acceleration power, exhaust toxicity, starting properties of the engine, and oil. So monitoring their condition is very important.
So, the main function of such rings is to remove heat from the piston. Otherwise, various defects will appear on it - burnouts, scuffs - which will lead to incorrect operation. The part will jam in the cylinder. They also ensure the tightness of the combustion chamber, and therefore minimize the movement of gases from the cylinder to the crankcase and in the opposite direction. In addition, the lubrication of the mating elements is regulated. After all, both oil starvation and its excess lead to negative consequences. And the flow of liquid into the combustion chamber must be very limited or completely excluded.
Before talking about malfunctions, replacement and decarbonization of oil scraper rings, let’s pay a little attention to their design features. One-piece parts today have lost their popularity and have even been discontinued. Due to their increased rigidity, they cannot adhere sufficiently to the surface and remove oil thoroughly.
There are parts consisting of two and three parts. The first set includes the ring itself and a spiral spring. Their advantages include increased flexibility, which ensures a tight fit to the cylinder walls. The spring is so pressed against the inside of the ring that the structure is solid. Three-element rings consist of a spacer spring and two steel plates. They mainly found their use in gasoline engines. The advantages include the tightest possible fit around the entire perimeter.
Working day for oil scraper rings
The heaviest load falls on the compression ring, so it is made mainly from special alloy materials. A wear-resistant coating is also applied to its surface, because this element must withstand gas pressure and high temperature. Thus, as the upper critical point is approached, the amount of lubricant decreases, and an increase in pressure in the cylinder contributes to a tighter fit of the ring to the walls. The speed of movement also decreases, and a complete stop completely leads to rupture of the oily film. In other words, the part operates in dry friction mode, which means it wears out very quickly.
The middle ring experiences much less stress. It is made from alloy cast iron. For high-performance engines, a wear-resistant coating is applied to the compression and oil scraper elements. The fact is that the lock maintains high pressure. From the name it is clear that they perform not only compression functions, but also take part in lubrication control. To eliminate the possibility of oil getting into the combustion chamber, the outer surface has a conical shape with an inclination angle of no more than 0°80’. The main task of such elements is to remove oil from the walls during the downward movement and prevent it from entering the combustion chamber during the upward movement.
The last elements are responsible only for removing oil and discharging it into the crankcase. To cope with the task as efficiently as possible, the design provides two belts, each of which removes residual oil. As a result, liquid accumulates both between these belts and on the lower edge of the part. To eliminate this, the lower caps have oblong slits or holes through which the substance is discharged to the reverse side. Then it ends up in a special pan or on the outside of the piston.
Seizing or wear – when is it time to check the condition of the rings?
As you can see, the operating conditions of piston caps and rings are not easy and therefore natural wear cannot be avoided. Usually the kit lasts for 150 thousand kilometers, although some car owners claim that their engines can last 500 thousand kilometers. But we can talk about such indicators only if the car is used correctly, otherwise you will have to think about engine repair much earlier. Using low-quality or unsuitable oil and not replacing it in a timely manner will negatively affect the condition of the rings, which will lead to their failure. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the air filter, especially if you have to constantly drive in very dusty areas. The serviceability of the fuel filter is also important.
It is advisable not to overheat or overload the engine itself. The formation of carbon deposits in the piston grooves leads to the formation of oil rings. In this case, the piston does not fit tightly enough to the cylinder and the car cannot develop the required power. You can delay the occurrence of the oil scraper ring as much as possible. Avoid short trips in winter, as the engine does not have time to warm up to the required temperature. It is very dangerous to give excessive loads during this period. If the system does not have enough lubrication, overheating will occur. It will lead to jamming and the formation of various defects on the surfaces of the piston and cylinder. As a result, the caps may completely deteriorate, or the partitions between the grooves may collapse. Constant downtime in city traffic jams is also dangerous for the car.
The need for repair or replacement can be determined by the following signs of wear on the oil scraper rings. Oil consumption will increase significantly, and blue smoke may appear when starting to move after a short stop, for example, at traffic lights. Besides, alarming signs of wear - leakage and evaporation of oil through gaskets, seals (caps) and in other places. Pay attention to the color of this fluid; if you just changed it and it turns black, then replacing the seals is inevitable. It also follows that they must be clean, otherwise you will have to contact a service station or carry out repair work yourself.
So, if you find any signs of wear in your car, then you need to check the oil rings. Diagnosis of the caps is quite simple. It is necessary to disconnect the hose of the forced ventilation system. If the crankcase pressure is increased, then the problem is the wear of the caps.
Decarbonization and its meaning
But is it always necessary to completely replace parts or is it possible to somehow extend their life? In case of carbon deposits and ring deposits, decarbonization often helps. Experienced mechanics share the following recipe for restoring such elements without dismantling. A mixture of acetone and kerosene in equal parts is prepared. Then you should unscrew the spark plugs and pour the decarbonizer into the cylinder through the holes formed. Leave for 9 hours. After the time has passed, we install the spark plugs in their regular places, start the engine and drive at maximum speed (a run of 10–15 km is enough). Afterwards it is highly advisable to change the oil and filter.
You can also purchase special decoking agents for oil scraper rings, especially since today there is no shortage of such chemicals. In principle, their use is similar to each other and to the previous method, but there are some differences, so be sure to read the instructions. Let's consider one of the decarbonization schemes with a special liquid. We jack up the front part of front-wheel drive cars, and the rear part for rear-wheel drive cars. We unscrew the spark plugs and set the pistons to the middle position. To do this, you need to engage the last gear and, turning the engine by the wheel, determine the position of the pistons. Then pour the decoking agent into the spark plug holes. Deoxidation of carbon deposits usually occurs in 15 minutes, although do not forget to check this time in the instructions.
To help the liquid decoke the entire surface, spin the wheel and change the angle of rotation. But not continuously - move it several times, let it rest for a couple of minutes, then repeat the procedure.
To prevent breakdown of the ignition coil while cranking the engine, you should remove the central high-voltage wire and secure it somewhere in a safe place, but do not forget to maintain a distance of at least 5 cm from the ground and the metal tip of the wire. The next step is to crank the engine with the starter while the gear is off. 10 seconds is enough. This step is necessary, because this is the only way to throw out the remaining decarbonizer from the cylinder. If this is not done, then after starting the engine, a hydraulic shock may occur, which can lead to failure of the entire power unit. The decarbonization is complete, now all that remains is to return everything to its original place and start the car. Don't be afraid if the engine doesn't respond right away, help it with gas. Also, you should not be bothered by strong smoke from the exhaust pipe. Start the car and let it idle for another 15 minutes.
Replacement step by step - help for an amateur
Decarbonization helps only in the case of carbon deposits, but if we are talking about wear, then only replacement will save you. You can do it yourself. We will need a special puller, a mandrel for pressing, a metal rod, and we still cannot do without tweezers and a desiccant. When purchasing new caps and rings, give preference to quality - look for original parts. Remember, if you get a fake, you can only enjoy the correct operation of the engine for a few thousand kilometers. In addition, the coating of the upper rings is sometimes selected to match the engine material. And the compression and oil scraper elements must match the material of the cylinder liner. If the replacement is made with cheaper analogues, the result may be negative.
The next step in replacing oil scraper rings and caps will be to dismantle the components and mechanisms to provide access to the parts. The air filter is removed first, then the fuel pump. Don't forget about the ignition distributor. To dismantle the drive housing for auxiliary units, it is necessary to disconnect the bolted connection, then remove the negative terminal from the battery and the toothed pulley from the camshaft. Next, to get to the cylinder head cover, remove the mass drive. Lastly, the nuts securing the front and rear camshaft bearing housings are unscrewed.
The position of the camshaft key cannot be ignored; if it is not seated tightly enough, it must also be removed, otherwise it may be lost. Now we have free access to the camshaft itself, we take it out and the oil seal. Now we unfold the part so that the piston is at TDC, and, having removed the spark plug, insert a metal rod into the resulting hole, otherwise the valve will fail. Then we compress the valve springs with a special tool and remove two crackers using tweezers. Press out the rings using a tool.
Now installation. We remove the springs from new spare parts so as not to damage them. Before installation, do not forget to lubricate the elements with engine oil. We press the part in and put the springs in place. Installation of oil scraper rings should be carried out strictly in the reverse order. When installing medium ones, it is very important not to mix up the sides, otherwise oil consumption will increase significantly.
As a rule, several factors indicate the need to replace VAZ piston rings. For any engine, fuel consumption and oil waste are the main indicators of its normal, economical operation. When these indicators begin to significantly exceed the norm, the need for engine repair arises. Measuring the compression in the engine cylinders will help you determine more accurately the need to replace the piston rings.
Compression measurement
Before measuring compression, in order to obtain more accurate readings, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature. Next, all the spark plugs are turned out, the central wire is removed from the ignition coil, the transmission is set to neutral and the throttle valve is opened to full capacity. Then the compression meter is inserted into one of the cylinders, and the assistant begins to turn the engine with the starter.A working cylinder gains compression from two to three strokes and should show a value of the order of 12-13 kg/cm 2, but not lower than 10 kg/cm 2. If the compression rises very slowly and does not reach the specified values, then either the valves or the piston rings are to blame. To clarify this, it is enough to pour 15-20 g of engine oil into the cylinder being tested and repeat the measurement.
Increased compression will indicate wear on the piston rings and, therefore, the need to replace them. If the compression meter readings have not changed, then the valves are the reason for its low values. In both cases, the engine must be disassembled and worn parts must be replaced accordingly.
Replacing piston rings VAZ It’s a simple operation and can be done by any car enthusiast familiar with the tool. You just need to listen to our recommendations, and the car advice will try to more clearly explain all the operations for replacing rings.
Disassembling the engine for repair.
Drain the oil from the engine. After replacing the rings, it will be necessary to fill in new oil and therefore the old oil can be drained into any suitable container.
- We give back the exhaust pipe of the muffler.
- We remove the valve cover and align the engine according to the marks, give the camshaft sprocket, having first straightened the lock washer of its mounting bolt. On front-wheel drive VAZ 2108 models and their modifications, when replacing VAZ piston rings, remove the timing belt pulley mounting bolt, loosen the tension roller and remove the belt, and then the pulley itself.
- On the classic, loosen the chain tensioner by unscrewing the tensioner bolt, and remove the chain and camshaft sprocket. We release the bolts securing the camshaft bed (starting from the center) and remove it. Next, remove the rocker and springs, and arrange them in the order of removal, so as not to confuse them when installing them further.
- On the VAZ2108 engine, we give the bolt securing the engine lining under the timing belt cover. Then on both engines we release the cylinder head mounting bolts in several stages, starting from the center, and completely unscrew the head mounting bolts. We remove the block head (after freeing it from all connections), along with the manifolds.
- Remove the engine sump and return the oil pump. It is advisable to mark the connecting rod caps with a thin core so as not to make mistakes during assembly. We remove the connecting rod caps and, pushing the connecting rod up with the handle of a hammer, pull out the piston with the connecting rod.
Checking the condition of old rings:
The rings are removed one by one from the piston and inserted into the cylinder, where the gap is measured, the maximum permissible is 1.0 mm
- For comparison, a new ring is inserted into the same cylinder and the gap is compared
Fitting new rings:
The ring is inserted into the cylinder, into its upper part, where there is no wear, since this area is not accessible to the upper compression ring. The gap can also be checked in a gauge of the corresponding diameter.
If there is no gap in the ring lock, then the ring must be filed with a diamond file until a gap of 0.25-0.45 mm appears.
Checking the pistons.
Replacing VAZ piston rings involves a thorough check of all parts to ensure their suitability for further use. Pistons are checked with a micrometer by measuring their skirt and comparing the readings with a tolerance table. The gap between the ring and the piston groove is also checked; if it exceeds the norm, the pistons must be replaced. The maximum permissible size in this case is 0.15 mm.
Cracks are not allowed on the pistons, and the integrity of the ring bridges must be checked. If the pistons are in satisfactory condition, then the grooves for the rings are cleaned, washed and they are ready for further use.
Installing rings on the piston.
It is most reliable to install new rings when the piston and connecting rod are clamped in a vice through a soft spacer. The first to install is the oil scraper ring, which is marked “TOP”; it should face upwards of the piston. The ring is installed after installing its expansion spring on the piston. If there is no marking, then the ring can be installed arbitrarily. This applies to oil scraper rings.
When replacing rings, try to install stacked oil scraper rings, as they are the most effective when installed in working cylinders.
When installing set-up rings, there is one very important point, namely. First, a spring expander is placed in the piston groove, and then two thin oil scraper rings. You need to take the ring by the circumference with two fingers and lightly squeeze it, and it will either rise up in the shape of a house, or down. It is necessary to mount the ring with the side facing the top of the piston that goes up. Only in this position will the ring effectively remove oil.
Next, the following rings are mounted, which are also installed with the word “TOP” facing up (TOP – top. English). The lower compression ring has a scraper-shaped oil catch groove that should point downwards. The upper compression ring, which does not have the “TOP” mark, can be installed arbitrarily.
After installing the rings on the piston, the ring locks are moved 180 degrees relative to each other.
Pistons with installed rings are mounted into the cylinder using a mandrel. If one is not available, then it can be made from a strip of iron, in the form of a cut cylinder with bent edges. A necessary condition for this is that after compressing the mandrel, all rings are sunk into the grooves of the piston.
Before installing the piston with connecting rod, the connecting rod journal, connecting rod bearing and the rings themselves are generously lubricated with oil.
The piston with connecting rod is lowered into the cylinder until it stops against the rings and is compressed with a mandrel, then pressed into the cylinder with light blows of a hammer. The connecting rod caps are put in place, the connecting rod bolt nuts are screwed on (they must go by hand to the end of the thread, otherwise the bolt-nut is replaced) and tightened with a torque of 6 kgf:m.
Reassembly is carried out in the reverse order, remembering to fill the engine with oil before starting. This completes the replacement of the piston rings.
You will need
- Tools: torque wrench and mandrel for pressing piston rings.
- As well as new head gaskets and block pan.
Instructions
After the cylinder head and pan have been safely removed and the oil pump has been removed, remove the connecting rod caps and bearings. Now, tapping lightly with the handle of the hammer, push up with the connecting rod and the upper liner. If you do not intend to change the earbuds, do not mix them up.
Clean off the top. Now you can determine the degree of wear of the cylinders. This can be done with sufficient accuracy without a bore gauge. To do this, insert the upper compression ring into the cylinder no deeper than 5 mm and measure the gap at the joint of the ring with feeler gauges. Record the reading (A1). Then lower the ring to a depth of 8 - 10 mm, in the area of maximum wear and measure (A2).
Using formula A2-A1/3.14 we calculate wear. If the cylinder wear is less than 0.15 mm, then it makes sense to replace the worn rings.
Before installing, be sure to check whether the new rings will fit. If the joint gaps installed in the upper, unworn part of the cylinder are:
– 0.30 – 0.45 mm first compression;
– 0.25 – 0.40 mm second compression and oil scraper – everything is fine. Otherwise, you will have to file the joint. For worn cylinders, you will need to focus on lower numbers.
Before rolling new rings along the grooves of the pistons. If the ring “bites”, then rub it in with fine-grained sandpaper placed on the glass, focusing on the recommended clearances with the piston.
Using a piece of an old broken ring, clean the piston grooves from carbon deposits and install the rings on the piston. Before installing the piston into the cylinder, accelerate the joints of the rings with a difference of 90 degrees relative to each other.
Clean the surface of the block from the old gasket and carbon deposits, turn the piston with the “P” mark towards the front of the engine and generously lubricate the cylinder and piston with engine oil. Bring the two crankpins of the crankshaft to bottom dead center. Install half of the liner into the connecting rod and also lubricate it with engine oil. To insert the piston into the cylinder, you can compress it with a three-centimeter strip of tin and then push it into place with light blows with the handle of a hammer.
We do the same with the second piston, then rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees and install the remaining two pistons.
Tighten the connecting rod cap nuts, install the cylinder head and further assemble the engine.
After assembly is complete, fill the engine with oil and coolant, adjust the valve clearances and start the engine.
Run the engine with replaced piston rings as good as new.
note
By replacing the piston rings, piston with piston pin and cylinder, decreased compression is restored, normal fuel consumption is restored, and some extraneous knocks are eliminated. Piston rings are replaced after the motorcycle has run approximately 10...12 thousand km. Signs of ring wear are engine oil consumption of more than 0.15 liters per 100 km and an increase in the gap in the lock of more than 1.2 mm.
Helpful advice
now the replacement of piston rings itself - in order to remove or install piston rings, special pliers are sold in special stores. If you don’t have them, you can get by with a small flat-head screwdriver and your own accuracy. Old worn-off rings can be broken, although if you wish, you can do everything quickly and carefully However, at least one compression ring can be broken, as on old pistons, in the grooves under.
The rings are metal elastic spring elements placed on the upper part (head) of the piston - in grooves specially provided for this. Most often, rings are made of steel (or high-strength cast iron) and coated with an alloying material to give greater strength and wear resistance. The end part of the rings in contact with the cylinder mirror can be coated with tin to facilitate running-in during the initial period of engine operation (or after its overhaul).
Other names
The full name for the rings is piston rings. There are compression rings (the top and second in a row - intermediate) and oil scraper rings (the bottom one).
Purpose of the rings
Piston rings are designed to ensure the required tightness of the working volume of the cylinder in the space above the piston during reciprocating movement of the piston. Compression rings protect against the breakthrough of hot gases into the engine crankcase, and oil scrapers– remove excess oil from the cylinder bore, simultaneously preventing it from entering the combustion chamber.
Due to some ovality of the initial shape, when put on the piston and installed in the cylinder, the rings fit tightly to the surface of the mirror. To prevent “through” penetration of gases through the ring locks, they are placed with mixing around the circumference (for example, for three piston rings, the locks should be located after 120 degrees. apart from each other).
Rings are an important part of piston cooling - through them up to half of all heat is transferred to the cylinder wall. Consequently, the material and design of the rings must withstand significant loads. The rings account for up to 30% of all friction losses in the engine. That is why the end surface of the rings is often barrel-shaped and coated with an anti-friction alloying material.
Signs of malfunction
The malfunction of the piston rings may consist either in their significant wear and inability to perform a sealing function. Or it breaks down, which is already a catastrophic failure for the engine. “Stuck” of piston rings is a loss of spring properties due to abundant carbon formation inside the grooves of the piston head, when the rings have “nowhere” to spring and provide reliable pressure to the cylinder wall.
The “classic” sign of piston ring failure is significant oil consumption due to waste, black exhaust(a sign of burning oil), as well as black smoke from the crankcase ventilation tube, indicating the free penetration of gases into the engine crankcase. A decrease in engine power also indicates ring wear. After all loss of compression(that is, a decrease in cylinder pressure at the end of the compression stroke) affects the decrease in the maximum and average pressure of the working cycle. Compression measurement Using a special indicator (screwed in instead of a spark plug), it gives an unambiguous conclusion about the condition/wear of the piston rings.
The cause of piston ring failure can be not only their natural wear, but also engine overheating. In this case, the rings quickly lose their properties (especially box-type oil scraper rings) and require replacement.
Piston ring repair
Repairing rings can only consist of replacing them with new ones. Replacing the rings in the engine requires preliminary disassembly (for which you should refer to the instructions for the specific car). The rings themselves are very simple to change: the edges in the lock area are moved apart until the ring comes out of the piston groove. Before installing new rings on the piston, it is necessary to evaluate their clearance. To do this, the ring is installed in the cylinder and pressed down by the piston. The gap is measured with a feeler gauge - it should not exceed 0.25-0.45 mm. If the gap is smaller, the ring needs to be slightly sharpened with a file (otherwise it will not “sit” in the piston groove). But in this matter you cannot overdo it, so as not to waste too much!
When installing rings, the main thing is not to confuse their relative position and type (compression and oil control), as well as the orientation of the ring itself. To do this, ring manufacturers always mark one side with the inscription TOP (“top”) Well, it’s also easy to distinguish the oil scraper ring from the compression ring - the first has a characteristic U-shaped profile and an expansion spring. The intermediate (second) compression ring may have additional "scraper" for better oil removal to help the oil scraper ring. Therefore, if the ring contains an edge, it Always install with the edge facing down.
When installing rings on the piston, the main thing is not to overdo it with force, otherwise the ring may break!
Additionally
One of the biggest mistakes is install new compression rings into the worn cylinder. This leads to the fact that the “step” of wear of the cylinder mirror can lead to breakage of the rings on it - and the need for a major engine overhaul! In addition, old rings leave a wear mark not only on the cylinder bore, but also on the inner surface of the piston groove. So the new ring and the “old” cylinder and piston may never get used to each other!
So the correct procedure would be replacement of piston rings along with pistons, as well as boring and honing of cylinders. Naturally, in this case, replacing the rings without removing the engine is impossible.
Ring life
The average lifespan of piston rings is from 150 to 400 thousand kilometers. For supercharged engines with hotter operating conditions, ring replacement may be required earlier.
However, the figures for “normal” wear can be greatly adjusted downwards if the engine is overheated, operated with unsuitable/low-quality engine oil and/or under extreme conditions. Wear on the piston rings increases sharply when trying to “accelerate” on a cold engine.
After replacing the piston rings, they need time to break in. This means, just like during the break-in period of a car, It is not recommended to spin the engine above 3000 rpm for the first 5 thousand km.
“Eternal” piston rings can be made from special alloy steel. However, they will never break into the cylinder. Hence the always present compromise - between the strength and wearability of the rings. To overcome it, the rings are coated with various alloys. And new rings (especially on German engines) are often coated with a special “triggered” tin (or copper) alloy - specifically for running-in during the initial period of operation.
It is important not to make a mistake!
Operating a vehicle with worn rings is to a decrease in engine power, deterioration of toxicity, increased fuel and oil consumption due to waste. In addition, worn rings lead to progressive wear of the cylinder bore, which subsequently results in very expensive engine repairs.
Engine repair and replacement prices
| Engine | |
| Replacing the air filter | from 200 rub. |
| Replacing hydraulic compensators | from 4,000 rub. |
| Replacing the cylinder head | from 8,000 rub. |
| Replacing cylinder block plugs | from 500 rub. |
| Replacing the rear oil seal | from 3,000 rub. |
| Replacing the valve gasket | from 500 rub. |
| Replacing manifold gaskets | from 500 rub. |
| Change of oil | from 500 rub. |
| Changing the automatic transmission oil | from 500 rub. |
| Changing the gearbox oil | from 500 rub. |
| Changing the oil in the axle | from 500 rub. |
| Replacing valve stem seals | from 2,000 rub. |
| Replacing the oil pump | from 1,000 rub. |
| Replacing the chain tensioner | from 1,000 rub. |
| Replacing the engine mount | from 500 rub. |
| Replacing the gearbox engine mount | from 500 rub. |
| Replacing the front oil seal | from 500 rub. |
| Replacing the pump | from 1,000 rub. |
| Replacing piston rings | from 10,000 rub. |
| Replacing the head gasket | from 4,000 rub. |
| Replacing the front cover gasket | from 1,000 rub. |
| Replacing the pan gasket | from 1,000 rub. |
| Camshaft replacement | from 3,000 rub. |
| Replacing the alternator belt | from 200 rub. |
| Replacing the power steering belt | from 200 rub. |
| Replacing the timing belt | from 3,000 rub. |
| Replacing the tensioner roller | from 500 rub. |
| Replacing the cabin filter | from 200 rub. |
| Replacing the camshaft oil seal | from 2,000 rub. |
| Replacing spark plugs | from 400 rub. |
| Replacing the thermal coupling | from 800 rub. |
| Replacing the damper | from 2,000 rub. |
| Chain replacement | from 3,000 rub. |
| Compression measurement | from 700 rub. |
| from 25,000 rub. | |
| from 20,000 rub. | |
| Engine flushing and oil change | from 500 rub. |
| Adjustment of valves | from 1,500 rub. |
| Removing and installing the engine | from 8,000 rub. |
| Installing crankcase protection | from 500 rub. |
| Trouble-shooting | from 200 rub. |
| Overhaul of 16 valves | from 25,000 rub. |
| Overhaul of 8 valves | from 20,000 rub. |
| cylinder head repair | from 3,000 rub. |
| repair of cylinder block plugs | from 500 rub. |
| engine diagnostics | from 800 rub. |
| injector diagnostics | from 800 rub. |
| replacement of gasoline and diesel engines | from 8,000 rub. |
| replacing the air filter | from 200 rub. |
| cylinder head replacement | from 8,000 rub. |
| engine replacement | from 8,000 rub. |
| replacement of diesel engines | from 8,000 rub. |
| changing engine oil | from 500 rub. |
| engine oil change | from 500 rub. |
| replacing timing belts (timing chains) | from 2,500 rub. |
| replacing chains | from 3,000 rub. |
| engine overhaul | from 25,000 rub. |
| engine overhaul | from 25,000 rub. |
| repair of gasoline and diesel engines | from 25,000 rub. |
| cylinder head repair | from 3,000 rub. |
| engine repair | from 20,000 rub. |
| diesel engine repair | from 25,000 rub. |
