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The rear shock absorber on a bicycle creaks: what to do? Bearings in wheel axles

The most popular and cheapest shock absorber is spring-elastomer. This shock absorber is very simple in design: a polymer rod is inserted inside a steel spring, which dampens vibrations.

The second type is oil-spring, more modern and reliable. Due to its relative cheapness and simplicity of design, it has become one of the most common in cycling.

And the third type is oil-air. It uses a compressed air cylinder instead of a spring. Due to the complexity of the design, it is better to repair them in specialized workshops, where they know exactly how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle.

Shock absorber lubrication

A poorly lubricated and out-of-adjustment mechanism can not only produce an unpleasant sound, but also make it difficult to control the bicycle, spoiling all the fun of sports. The ideal option is to clean the external parts of the bicycle fork after each ride, and at least once a season to lubricate the internal parts of the mechanism. The easiest way is to take the bike to a workshop whose master knows exactly what needs to be done, but experienced cyclists can try it themselves.

Spring and spring-elastomeric shock absorbers can be lubricated without disassembling the bicycle fork. To do this, lubricant is drawn into a syringe and poured under the boot. After this, the bike should be “rocked” and excess oil should be removed with a napkin. But! This is a fast, hiking option, used when it is not possible to disassemble the bike even partially. According to the rules, you should first unscrew the mounting bolts from the bottom, then unscrew the Preload bolt, remove the elastomer and spring, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the “pants,” that is, the part of the bicycle fork to which the wheel is attached. This is where the most dirt is found and this is the part that most often needs repairs. The anthers are taken out of the last part (they can be easily picked up with a screwdriver).

Maintenance of the oil-spring design is also simple. If the open oil bath method is used, then the oil can simply be drained and the parts cleaned. This system is perhaps the easiest to maintain, and inspection and minor repairs can be performed even at home. Things are a little more complicated with a closed oil bath. The oil in this design is in a capsule and changes along with the entire capsule. Unlike the first option, a closed oil bath often requires more maintenance.

The oil-air shock absorber is considered the most demanding to maintain. To clean and lubricate it, you need to:

Unscrew and wash the shock absorber. This will prevent debris from entering the air chamber;
Open the valves and release the pressure. If everything is done correctly, the mechanism will easily compress and unclench;
Next, the mounting parts are removed from the shock absorber, and the air chamber itself is disassembled;
Then you should remove the oil seal. If any parts are damaged, it’s time to replace them or make other repairs. If everything is intact, then old grease and mechanical impurities are removed, and you can begin assembling the bicycle fork;
Fork oil is poured onto the shock absorber body, placed vertically. Gaskets and seals are installed in place. The air chamber is pushed all the way so that no air escapes from it. It is better to add a little more oil, and only then screw it back to the shock absorber body;
Next, the shock absorber is inflated to the required pressure and installed in place.

Motorists have a saying: “The car loves affection, cleanliness and lubrication.” The same can be said for a bicycle, although it requires much less maintenance. If you know how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle, then this procedure will not seem long or laborious at all, and the iron horse can run for many seasons without repair.

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Repair

Disassembling a bicycle fork is not difficult. To do this, just follow the instructions provided. The purpose of this enterprise is troubleshooting, cleaning, lubrication and oil changes.

Before you begin directly disassembling the bike, you need to prepare items that will be useful during the repair work:

you should wear repair clothing (old or unnecessary equipment), which may become quite dirty during the work process;
It is advisable to cover the surface with various rags or newspapers so as not to contaminate the floor of the room with oil;
you need to gather around you all the necessary tools (hexagons, screwdrivers, etc.);
you need to buy oil.

Depreciation

Many bicycles have the front shock absorber built into the structure. This type of fork is called a suspension fork. Bikes with a similar component are used for traveling in mountainous areas where there are practically no smooth roads. Thanks to the functionality of the fork, unevenness is smoothed out, which allows you not to experience discomfort when riding.

Unlike other types, suspension forks require constant monitoring, periodic cleaning and careful maintenance. Moreover, inspection and maintenance must be carried out even when the bike is in a static position for a long time.

Let's look at two features that distinguish a suspension fork in the table below.

Suspension forks do not differ in material of manufacture from their other analogues. Various combinations of materials are often used for production, since the fork includes individual elements that can be made in different ways. The best option, according to experts, in this case is the use of carbon parts. The “legs” of suspension forks are often made of aluminum alloys.

Let's highlight the types of suspension forks:

Regular. Simple forks found on hilly bikes (mountain bikes).
Double crown. Bikes with such forks are equipped with two “crowns”, which adds advantages during high-speed descents.
Inverted. Mirror image of a regular fork. Such bicycles are subject to heavy loads, so they are well used for performing various jumping elements.
One-legged. Rarely used in everyday life. It is impossible to install a rim brake on such a fork, but the main advantage is the ability to replace the tube without removing the wheel.

Before you begin the procedure for cleaning and repairing a bicycle fork, you must disassemble it. Disassembly occurs after it is removed from the bike. The withdrawal process will be discussed in paragraph 3.

Let's consider the stages of disassembling a suspension fork:

The mounting bolts are unscrewed.
The pants are removed from the “legs” and, if necessary, the seals are removed.
Old grease is removed, both from the surface of the fork and inside the pants.
The travel stops and their stops are removed. To do this, they are pulled off the rods.
The adjustments on the “legs” of the fork are unscrewed using a key.
The surface of the fork is again cleaned of old lubricant.

Oily

In addition to suspension forks, there are a considerable number of options that have certain advantages. In this section, we note oil forks for bicycles, which exist in two types – oil-air and oil-spring. The table below highlights the features of both of the above types of bicycle forks.

Plug type	Peculiarities
Oil-air	In ratings, a bike with such a fork is considered one of the best. The air in this case acts as a spring. Oil, in turn, is a shock absorber. After compression, the air is smoothly restored, allowing the oil to flow from one unit to another. These forks have a lot of different settings, but what is most important is optimality in terms of weight.
Oil-spring	Unlike oil-air forks, it is the spring that plays the role of the spring component in such forks. The weight of this design significantly exceeds the weight of other types of forks. The main advantage is the excellent shock absorption effect. Also, processes occur in the oil-spring fork that ensure a smooth ride of the bicycle.

Let us note the features of prevention and care of a bicycle fork. Experienced cyclists can fix any problem themselves if they show interest in their vehicle and understand its parts. Finding the cause of the breakdown is quite simple for such people, as is fixing the breakdown.

All cyclists without exception can carry out prevention. To do this you need to check:

The serviceability of the end of the front fork leg, which is attached to the frame (rear triangle) of the bicycle (“dropout”).
Check for various damage to the “legs”.
Check the boot of the bicycle fork for damage and leaks.
Analyze the pressure readings in the air chamber.
Inspect the condition of the fasteners.

Moreover, it is necessary to regularly clean the master keys, as well as change the oil. For this procedure, you can use both specialized bicycle oils and liquid oils for cars or sewing machines. When choosing a lubricant, you should pay attention to its resistance to various weather conditions.

Air

Air bicycle forks are universal designs that are distinguished by their unique functionality. The damper and spring in such forks are the responsibility of the air, which is why the small mass of the structure is formed. But such elements are not ideal, since in frosty weather air etching often occurs. There are also no special settings, and air is pumped into the system using a high-pressure pump.

Experts advise carefully monitoring your vehicle so that you don’t end up spending a lot of money on fixing your bike. Regular care of the fork helps prevent unwanted damage. In this case, the parts will not break (or they will, but in the rarest cases) and they will not need to be replaced with new elements.

Since some types of forks are not particularly popular, finding parts for the design will be very problematic. An example of a bicycle with an air front fork is the Stels Navigator 360 model. A video review of the bike can be seen below.

How to remove the plug

Let's look at the step-by-step process of disassembling a bicycle fork:

First you need to unscrew all the parts that are attached to the fork. These elements can be brake calipers or disc brake hydraulic lines. The V-brakes are also removable.
The bolts that secure the stem to the handlebar tube are unscrewed, after which it is necessary to unscrew the bicycle fork anchor bolt.
Then you need to carefully remove the steering wheel. Be extremely careful not to damage the hydraulic lines.
At the next stage, the spacer rings and guide sleeve are removed. In order to carry out this procedure, you should carefully pry the sleeve in the area of the cut using a flat-head screwdriver. Next, the upper race ring and the upper bearing are detached.
The steering tube can now be removed. Then you should remove the bearing, the race ring, and also unfasten the front wheel of the bicycle. To do this, unscrew the fixing bolts. The result is an unscrewed bicycle fork.

How to place a fork

The fork is assembled in the same way as the disassembly process, but in the reverse order. The main thing is to carefully double-check each element so that the installation of components does not turn out to be erroneous.

There is no need to worry about excessive amounts of oil released the first time you drive. This is normal as excess oil will escape through the cuffs of your pants. As soon as the excess material is released, the release process will immediately stop. Any remaining lubricant should be wiped off after each use of the bicycle.

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The rear shock absorber on a bicycle creaks: what to do?

This complex part includes a lot of different elements.
The first thing you need to do when extraneous noise appears is to disassemble the assembly and check for the presence of lubricant. If it dries, a new layer must be applied. Before doing this, be sure to rinse and dry all parts. Then the rear shock absorber for the bicycle is assembled in reverse order. This procedure allows you to improve the smooth interaction of elements, extending their service life. Universal Teflon lubricant is suitable for all types of bikes. Also, if you notice squeaks, have the fork inspected, as this is often the problem.

The majority of shock absorbers have settings, the correct adjustment of which makes it possible to better control control and speed when driving. In addition, wear on the unit is reduced. Let's consider the sequence and features of this operation.

How to adjust the rear shock absorber on a bicycle?

This process requires consideration of three primary controls. The first of these is preload. This parameter represents the resistance received by the fork under the weight of the rider. Accordingly, the greater the mass, the higher the degree of preload should be. For elements with a spiral spring, this means an increase or decrease in elasticity, and for pneumatic analogues, more pressure.

The second point is the compression damping, which arises from the inside of the shock absorber, is responsible for regulating the flow of lubricant through special holes. This indicator affects the assembly during compression without affecting the preload. The more pressure applied, the more difficult it will be to control the bike.

Finally, there is recoil damping (similar to an internal compression system). This moment affects the rear shock absorber on the bicycle only during its return to the starting position. If this parameter is increased excessively, the fork will settle into its position more slowly. This solution is appropriate when there is significant resistance on the bike, especially on bumps and turns.

Setting the preload

It is best to carry out such work together, but one can do it quite well. The first thing to measure is the internal part, which is a shiny element that moves in the middle of the body. Divide the resulting value by 4. For optimal functionality, a 25% sag is required. On downhill mountain bikes this parameter can be 30%.

Almost any modern rear shock absorber for a bicycle is equipped with a small inflatable ring or a special stopper that serves to control subsidence. If there is no such element, you can tie an elastic band. It is not recommended to use a cable for this, which collects dirt and scratches the surface. As a result, you may need not only repairs, but also replacement of the rear shock absorber on your bicycle. The compression damping switch is set to descent mode, the ring is removed, and the bike is carefully placed on a flat surface. After this, you should take the riding position. To correctly select a constant weight, try not to shake the bike during the procedure.

Peculiarities

Carefully check the degree of subsidence by observing the distance the ring moves. If the reading is more or less than a quarter length, start adjusting the psi. Typically on air shocks, 25% sag will produce 150-200 psi.

On the helical counterparts, minor adjustments are made using preload discs. Depending on the weight of the rider, correct adjustment may require a coil with a higher or lower elasticity index. They are available to purchase in specialized stores.

Compression and Damping

The rear shock absorber for a bicycle, depending on the modification, is equipped with a CTD type switch or suspension (damping) settings. In the first case, it is enough to adjust the element according to the surrounding landscape.

If there are settings, proceed as follows:

Pay attention to the number of adjustment range modes. To do this, scroll the disk forward and backward, counting the clicks made.
If you don't want to experiment with finding the optimal value, set the dial to the middle value.
Extreme parameters are very rarely suitable for athletes.
When driving, remember the route and the required settings to determine how the suspension functions.

Lubrication

How to lubricate the rear shock absorber on a bicycle? There are no particular difficulties in this process. Oil is poured into the fork, and liquid lubricant is placed directly into the shock-absorbing element. The shock absorber is first disassembled, all parts are washed and thoroughly dried. Then a layer of suitable lubricant is applied, after which the assembly is assembled.

If the problem is squeaking in the fork, disassemble the part as follows:

The element is cleaned and the wheel is dismantled.
Unscrew the bolts holding the fork in the rods and remove the regulator.
Next, remove the brake system.
The remains of the old lubricant are removed from the rods.
Dismantle the stuffing box rings.
The internal cavities of the fork are thoroughly wiped.
Thick lubricant is applied to the oil seals, and oil is poured into the element pants.
Reassemble the unit in the reverse order.

As experts recommend, to maintain the bike in optimal condition, it is advisable to lubricate the shock absorbers every day when riding in the rain and once a week if the weather is sunny. As processing materials, use special aerosol sprays, oil recommended by the manufacturer, or universal Teflon grease.

Finally

Above we looked at why the rear shock absorber on a bicycle creaks and how to solve this problem. Timely lubrication will extend the life of parts, improve ride comfort and eliminate extraneous noise. Following these recommendations, it is also easy to make the correct adjustment of the shock absorber, which optimizes the moving process, depending on the weight of the cyclist and the characteristics of the road being used.

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The main reasons for disassembling a bicycle fork:

repair;
adjustment;
maintenance (TO);
just look at the device.

Modern front suspension forks come in different types. Inexpensive ones include spring-elastomer ones, which are mainly used on budget mountain bikes: ardis, formula, stealth, forward, cronus, etc.

Popular brands:

Zoom (Zoom);
RST(rst);
Suntour (Santour);
RockShox (Rockshock).

They are simple in design and not expensive in price. As for reliability, it depends on the method of operation. If you maintain and take care of it on time, it can last a long time without problems. But as a rule, on inexpensive ones, play in the front fork legs, rusting of the legs and other problems are inevitable soon.

Further instructions are suitable for almost any spring-elastic fork, since their design is identical.

Procedure for disassembling the fork:

unscrew the nuts (bolts) that are located at the bottom of the pants;
carefully knock out the guide rods into the pants;
take your legs out of your pants;
we get rid of old grease, dust, dirt - wipe the fork legs dry with a clean cloth;
wipe the seals and upper guides in the pants;
we clean the lower baschings (guides) - push a rag into the inside of the pants with a knitting needle several times until it is clean;
unscrew the top cap (fork cap) using a special wrench or pliers;
we take out the spring and get rid of the old grease, wiping it dry with a rag;
lubricate the spring with new grease, insert it back and tighten the top cap;
repeat the same with the second leg;
When assembling the fork, it is advisable to get rid of corrosion on the legs, if any. For this we use fine sandpaper and try to clean it carefully without much effort;
You can also shorten the springs of the anthers (by 0.5-1 cm), since over time they stretch and do not press so tightly, so dust and dirt get in more often.
it is necessary to lubricate the upper bushings and boots; you can use machine oil; if possible, use special fork oil with a viscosity of 7.5W;
pour a little oil into the inside of the pants to lubricate the lower towers;
put your legs into your pants;
tighten the lower bolts (nuts).

Video instructions on how to disassemble the front fork on a mountain bike

After such manipulations, your fork will become more noticeable and better. Such maintenance can be carried out before each season; by spending half an hour, you can significantly extend the life of the front fork on your bicycle.

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Like all equipment, a bicycle loves lubrication and caress where it is needed. Have you often met cyclists with oil oozing from their forks and bare metal peeking out from under the anodization of their legs? Believe me, such people do exist. Without maintenance, sooner or later any part will become unusable. Today we will not talk about how to rebuild a fork, but will highlight the issue of maintaining the fork in working condition. And even if you have some kind of budget fork, timely care can significantly improve its performance.

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What causes performance to deteriorate?
How to keep an eye on the fork

Without going into details, we will say that modern forks are a “pipe-in-pipe” design. Between these pipes there is a spacer (bushing) which reduces the play between the pipes and, reducing friction, allows them to slide into each other. All this is generously lubricated with oil, and sealed from the environment with oil seals and anthers. Also, next to the seals and anthers there may be a foam ring soaked in oil. This allows the bushings to be lubricated more abundantly and reduces friction.

Contrary to popular belief, the quality of the fork’s performance deteriorates not due to the degradation of some lubricating properties of the oil, but precisely due to dirt and dust getting inside the fork. Dirt mixed with oil forms an abrasive that begins to slowly but surely tear off the protective coating from the legs and fork bushings. If you want your fork to serve you for a long time and with high quality, then it is necessary that dirt does not get inside the fork.

The first rule is never wash your fork with a pressure washer.

Keeping your bike clean is a good and right thing to do, but you shouldn’t wash the fork, and the legs and boots in particular, with a high-pressure washer. From dirty boots under the pressure of water, dirt can get inside the fork, and water inside does not bode well for you! Therefore, be extremely careful when washing your bike after a serious mud ride.

The second rule is to remove dirt from the anthers with a cloth.

Simply wrap a piece of gorilla tissue around the fork leg and use a left-to-right motion to wipe away any dirt from the boot and be sure to check for any dirt between the gorilla and the fork leg.

The third rule is no external lubrication!

If you additionally lubricate the fork legs before riding, this will only harm the fork. Dirt sticks well to the lubricant and eventually this dirt will end up inside your fork. If the fork was serviced on time, then all the necessary lubricant is already inside. If you want the lubricant to get to the bushings and seals, then simply turn the bike upside down and let it stand like that for 5-10 minutes. The lubricant is guaranteed to flow down and lubricate all the necessary components. And during active skating, the lubricant itself will get onto the bushings.

Fourth rule - use protective film

Using a protective film, something like anti-gravel film from a nearby auto store, will protect your fork from external damage such as chips from pebbles or a fall. This film is inexpensive and can easily take any shape using ordinary scissors. There are also ready-made solutions like AMS Fork Guard, where you only need to select the appropriate model for your fork and stick it on. Don’t forget about the places where the cables and hydraulic lines come into contact; it’s also better to glue them so that they don’t rub against the fork while riding.

The fifth rule is timely service

The exact oil change period can be found in the instructions for your fork. If the manual was not included in the kit, then just look for it on the Internet. The more worn the seals and boots are, the more dirt gets inside and the more often you will have to change the oil to maintain the quality of the fork. So don’t forget about their periodic replacement.

It is worth noting that closed fork cartridges (when the oil is isolated inside a special container) or closed oil baths (when the oil is in the leg does not mix with oil in the fork leg) can be serviced less frequently, but the fork legs need to be cleaned of dirt and the oil in them needs to be changed more often. This will extend the overall service period and won’t put a big dent in your pocket, since pants usually use no more than 15-20 ml of oil.

At the end of the article, we would like to remind you that saving on service and careless attitude towards the condition of your bike’s components entails serious financial losses. New hardware costs incomparably more than regular maintenance, don’t forget this!

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Like any mechanism, a bicycle must be periodically lubricate.

Bike lube applied to reduce friction between nodes. For each part there is a specific frequency and technique for lubrication. Attention should be paid to all rubbing parts.

How to lubricate a bicycle? For lubrication there is a special bicycle lubricant, focused on each individual structural unit. You can often find such sets in stores. But such special lubricants are usually extremely expensive and not particularly practical, so the required set of oils can be successfully assembled in any car store. If you have free funds, then it is quite possible to use special bicycle oils, however, getting them is not as easy as common household lubricants.

In a set of bicycle lubricants must be included:

W.D.— 40 - Sold in any hardware or auto store in the form of an aerosol. A legendary universal liquid, which, by and large, is not exactly a lubricant. The thing is necessary and convenient for any work.
Silicone Grease- also sold in car dealerships in spray cans. It is fundamentally different from WD and other lubricants in that it does not corrode rubber parts and seals. Completely inert and can be safely used on forks and similar points.
Grease, For example pennant or lithol- easy to find in hardware or car stores, now sold in tubes, like toothpaste. It is used for lubricating any bearings and when installing parts.
Graphite lubricant— sold in tubes, plastic. Also safe for plastic and elastomeric surfaces and seals. Can be used to coat fork legs. It differs from silicone in that plastic can be successfully used for lubricating oil seals during installation.
Lithium grease- Sold in cans at auto stores. Can be replaced with other similar lubricants (for example, copper). Produced by various companies, including under the brand WD-40. Successfully used as bicycle chain lubricants (clean chain). It can also be suitable for lubricating bearings or friction surfaces. Positioned as a lubricant for particularly loaded components.
Universal lubricant for machines and devices- spindle, low-viscosity oil or low-viscosity motor oil. Often used as bicycle chain lubrication. And in general, the thing is practical and useful.
Chainsaw chain lubricant- pink lubricant, which is sold in household goods in cans. Sometimes it very successfully replaces other types of lubricants when lubricating a chain.
Fork and shock absorber oil- Sold in sporting goods and motorcycle stores. Special shock absorber oil a certain viscosity (from 2.5w to 10w).
Motorcycle Drive Chain Lubricant— in stores you can often find special lubricant for motorcycle drive chains. It is well suited for lubricating a bicycle chain, but due to its high cost it can be replaced with the analogues mentioned above.

To outline parts that need to be lubricated, then you get the following list:

Bicycle chain— bicycle chain lube This is a sore point for every cyclist. The chain operates under constant exposure to aggressive factors such as rain, dirt or snow and therefore requires attention. The chain often rusts and squeaks, which leads to difficulty turning and severe wear on the chain. Proper care of a bicycle chain is a special culture. Before lubrication, the chain should be cleaned of dirt and sand (there are special machines for cleaning the chain, but you can do without them), then lubricate it with WD-40 or spindle oil, after a while you can apply a thicker lubricant to the chain - lithium or chain lubricant chainsaws (or special lubricant for a motorcycle drive chain). Before lubrication, rinse the chain very well with kerosene or gasoline. To do this, you can put kerosene in an oil can and drip it onto the chain. For lubrication, it is convenient to use the tube included in the WD-40 kit or an oil can. You need to drip carefully and onto each link. Regularity of maintenance depends on the operating mode - if you frequently travel through mud and rain, it is better to do this at least once a month, and apply WD-40 or spindle to the chain every 3-4 days. Lubricate a bicycle chain necessary at least 3-4 hours before the trip, and preferably the evening before the trip. This will prevent excess lube splashing and also allow the chain lube to penetrate into each link.
Fork legs and shock absorber rod— these parts constantly interact with soft plastic seals and, if they dry out excessively and become overgrown with dirt, they interfere with the correct operation of the shock absorber and shorten the service life of the seal. Before lubricating, the legs and rod must be wiped clean and all dirt and sand particles must be removed. Next, apply silicone grease. Do it better before every trip, especially if skiing occurs in dry, dusty or very dirty weather. Also, during the process of disassembling the fork and maintaining the shock absorber, graphite lubricant can be applied to the seals. It is not practical to lubricate the legs and stem of the assembled fork with graphite lubricant. It is strictly forbidden to use other types of lubricants, such as motor lubricants. Since they are highly reactive, this will cause damage to elastomer and plastic parts.
Bearings for bushings, pedals and steering column— directly affect the ride of the bike and the comfort of movement. Particular attention should be paid to ball bearings, which need to be lubricated at least once a season. Modern industrial bearings have a supply of lubricant for their entire service life, however, when disassembling units, it is useful to apply grease to the outer side of the bearing and leave the grease in the cup. If we are talking about old-style linear bushings, then the bushing can be lubricated with liquid lubricant indiscriminately. Before this, you should wash the assembly with kerosene or WD-40 and then drip the assembly with a spindle. However, units assembled with grease work much better. Bushings and assemblies should be lubricated at every repair, and in the case of liquid lubricant, every two months.
Shock absorber and link joints— connection points also affect the quality of the suspension, and when dirt and water get in, they can begin to creak. It is useful to periodically drip a drop of spindle or apply WD-40 into such nodes.
Cables— theoretically, no lubrication is required here, but it is useful to lubricate the cable during installation to improve the responsiveness of the switch and brake levers.
Shock Absorber and Fork— if the shock absorber and fork have an oil bath, then the oil in them should be changed periodically. The time periods are usually indicated in the operating instructions. This is roughly done once a season. The recommended oil viscosity is indicated in the instructions. It is worth noting that for the cold season you need to use oil with a lower viscosity. Do not use motor oil.
Rubbing parts of switches and handles— all connections may not work correctly when exposed to moisture, so it is useful to drip drops of oil into the friction points. This should be done when thoroughly washing the bike.

Which parts are not required? bicycle lubricant- never lubricate should not come into contact with the brake friction surfaces of the discs or the rim. This essentially disables the brakes. There is often a joke among cyclists who are new to it that when the brakes squeak, they need to be lubricated. Even if lubricant accidentally gets on these surfaces, it will be extremely difficult to wipe them off, and braking efficiency is reduced many times.

It must be remembered that excessive bicycle lubricants will only lead to the accumulation of dirt on the lubricated components. However, lack of lubrication will lead to premature wear of the unit and uncomfortable movement. You need to follow the indicated maintenance intervals and don’t be afraid to lubricate your bike once again if necessary. For example, after driving in the rain, it is very useful to lubricate all components except the bushings (since usually the grease does not wash out so quickly), even if the maintenance period has not yet come.

Bike lube can also be useful when installing bicycle components. For example, it is very convenient to lubricate the threads of the pedal with pennant or litol lubricant when screwing it into the connecting rod. This will prevent the part from burning. This approach is correct when installing all parts prone to burning. However, you need to pay attention that sometimes a special thread locker is applied to the threads. Applying lubricant on top of this retainer will negate its function.

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The bicycle is a unique mechanical invention of mankind. And, of course, it needs lubrication to improve performance. Proper lubrication of all moving parts is necessary to reduce friction between them and facilitate movement. Therefore, beginners ask themselves: when and how to do it correctly?

Special oils, liquid in consistency, are suitable for lubricating all types of chains and shock-absorbing systems. The structure of the oil penetrates well into hard-to-reach places, ensuring further uninterrupted operation of bicycle components and components.

When is the best time to clean up your bike?
Do not forget that before lubrication it is necessary to clean the body of the part from dirt. To do this, you will need the following necessary tools and tools: a bucket of very hot water, car shampoo or dishwashing detergent, brushes, sponges, an old toothbrush for hard-to-reach places, narrow flat-head screwdrivers, degreaser, rags. We wash the bike and let it dry for several hours or wipe it with a cloth. Only then do we begin the procedure of lubricating the parts.

Quick cleaning
This procedure serves as an intermediate procedure between major cleanings. This can be removing dirt from the chain without directly dismantling it. To do this, you can wash the chain from dirt with a rag and a brush, or use a special machine for cleaning the chain. It all depends on the capabilities of your budget.

Major cleaning
To do this you will have to remove the chain from the bike. Depending on whether there is a connecting link on the chain or not, additional squeezing may be necessary. After dismantling the chain, place it in a container with a cleaning agent and, using a brush and rags, wash it until it is as clean as possible.

It is better to change the water in the container after each product. In addition to the chain, it is worth cleaning other important components well. For convenience, it is recommended to remove the rear wheel to wash the cassette and disassemble the rear derailleur tab with rollers, then get to the tensioner roller, if the tensioner itself is installed on the bicycle.

Cleaning and lubricants
Experienced cyclists recommend several topical products for excellent cleaning of dirt and lubrication of the bike.

WD-40
Sprayer with a thin and long tubular nozzle. A huge plus of the product is easy access to labor-intensive connections of components. It will help remove rust and clean the surface of old grease.

Two-component aerosol
The product is ideal for cleaning and lubricating switches, threads and cables. The aerosol can is adapted to work even in hard-to-reach places to envelop bicycle parts. If you need to separate damaged parts, use LM40 and LM47 aerosols. Among the key ingredients is kerosene. It is this substance that will carefully carry out this difficult procedure. Excess product can be removed with a rag.

Liquid oil
A universal product for all types of chains and shock absorbers. The structure of the oil envelops the surface of the treated area 100%. Characterized by a long-lasting effect for uninterrupted operation of parts. The disadvantage is that the consistency thickens greatly in the cold and the possible collection of dirt when riding in bad weather.

Calcium-containing lubricants
A popular type of grease for caring for all kinds of parts and components. The advantage of such a lubricant is stability on the surface of parts (formation of a protective layer for excellent operation of the bicycle). Unlike lithium products, they have a high level of adhesion and anti-corrosion effect. Bicycle “cosmetics” containing calcium do not react with aluminum, so they are more expensive and are used to care for expensive bikes. The product will take care of sealing the connections.

Lithium Greases
They will help keep the chassis of the bicycle in perfect order. Such lubricants are suitable for maintaining bearing axles and carriages. A substance called lithium gives the product a specific slip; it does not thicken at temperatures down to -50°C and does not liquefy when heated to +150°C. A negative nuance is the high level of water solubility.

Lubricants with silicone
Easy to apply to bike parts. They are able to “repel” dust and water, but dry out faster.

Teflon-based lubricants
The composition uses a substance for all types of chains. The liquid has an extremely low coefficient of friction relative to the contacting solid surfaces of the chain. For better penetration into hard-to-reach areas, Teflon lubricant is diluted with oil or solvent. The ratio of components depends on the operating conditions (dry asphalt, dusty primers or wet roads). It comes in the form of an aerosol can, but its use is fraught with consumption too quickly, so it is better to give preference to the liquid analogue.

Wax lubricants
Can last for several months under dry riding conditions. Frequent mechanical cleaning of the chain is not required. But the wax itself can fall off over time in the form of scales and flakes. This type of lubricant is difficult to treat hard-to-reach areas.

Graphite lubricants
Good tools for overloaded nodes. An important plus is the long-term effect. The downside is that the lubricant very much stains everything that comes into contact with it.

How to properly carry out the lubrication procedure?
Start lubricating your bike from any part. Lubricate the cassettes and chain stars several times and rotate the connecting rods counterclockwise. A small amount of lubricant is sufficient. Remember that it should not be too thick. Your comfort of riding a bicycle depends on the regularity of the procedure - the chain will not buzz, you will immediately feel ease and freedom in changing gears. In addition to lubrication, monitor the mileage of the bicycle chain. On average, after every two thousand kilometers the part requires replacement due to sagging, unclear gear shifting and damage to the cassette sprockets on the rear wheel.

To lubricate the brakes, clamp them and apply the product to the cable and joint, the points where the cable enters the jacket. If your bike is equipped with V-brakes, be careful not to get oil on the rim - otherwise, the rim must be wiped, otherwise the braking efficiency will be reduced to zero. Aerosol products for more dosed spraying are best suited for lubrication. Apply a drop of oil to the cable exit and entry points.

The carriage is one of the key components of the bicycle, which sets the working impulse for other parts of the device. The speed and ease of movement depends on its condition. To lubricate the carriage, you will need a thicker product than for the chain or cables.

Bearings in wheel axles require frequent lubrication. The care scheme for them is identical to the previous one.

All moving elements in the front and rear derailleurs must be lubricated. They often become clogged with deposits from a thickened mass of grease and dirt around the perimeter. They can be carefully removed with a flat screwdriver. Move the switch in different directions to see which parts require more lubrication. Don't forget to treat the rear derailleur roller bearings - they directly affect pedaling.

To treat the rollers, you need to apply a liquid product precisely on the axles to relieve them from squeaking and tight rotation. Rollers in a lubricated state are able to rotate with minimal resistance. For the procedure, experts recommend using aerosol products. When lubricating a chain, it is important to apply lubricant to each link, preferably in a thin layer. If you are using liquid lubricant, you can use a syringe or oil can for more precise application.

Caring for the front shock absorber allows you to travel over difficult terrain with greater comfort. A good shock absorber handles both small and large bumps, so you should keep it in good condition. Depending on weather conditions, oil of a certain viscosity is poured into the suspension fork, the same is true for the rear shock absorber.

After lubrication, you should spin the pedals, press the brake levers a couple of times, and change gears. Remove excess grease so that it does not collect dust later. When using an aerosol, you must ensure that the stream reaches all hard-to-reach places. Avoid getting oil on tires, rims, disc brake rotors and other parts.

Chain cleaning machine: necessary or not?
Not all newfangled devices turn out to be particularly useful. At first glance, this device may make life easier for a novice cyclist and will be completely unnecessary for an experienced cyclist. In any case, you should not leave the chain without proper care.

There are several types of bicycle chain cleaning machines. They differ in configuration, price and durability. The most budget models produced by Bike, Barbieri, Hand and Birzman are machines with three cleaning wheels and a convenient reservoir. The more expensive machine from Kettenmax has all the necessary additional components in its arsenal. Essentially, the final choice will depend on your financial capabilities. The key advantage of the machine is the ability to care for the chain without removing the part from the bicycle.

To begin the procedure, you need to place the chain directly into the machine. The container is filled in advance to the middle of the rollers with a washing solution (the norm is 50 ml). After this, smooth rotation of the pedals is ensured. Hold the car and the bicycle at the same time. To carry out the procedure in a living room, it is better to protect the floor with pieces of cloth or cover it with paper. The cleaned chain must dry and only then can lubricant be applied.

Optimal intervals between lubrications
There are no clearly defined standards - it all depends on the owner of the bicycle. It is enough to carry out the lubrication procedure a couple of times a season to extend the durability of the bicycle - at the beginning and at the end. After heavy extreme loads, it is advisable to wash the bike and take the time to re-lubricate the parts and connections. Some cyclists lubricate the chain after every hundred kilometers, regardless of weather conditions.

What should not be used to lubricate a bicycle chain?
Experts strongly do not recommend using thick lubricants - this will prevent the product from properly penetrating into all the necessary places. Another disadvantage is the accumulation of road dust. Do not use concentrated grease and litol, sunflower oil.

It is advisable to avoid using automotive gear oils and oil fluids for lubricating sewing machines. They attract dust - after two trips you will have to clean the dirty chain again. Also, such oils are very afraid of moisture, which cannot be avoided in rainy weather.

Results
Remember that the modern market is full of bicycle cleaning fluids. This is all good, but car shampoo and hot water will have a similar effect. The key to removing dirt is hot water, and all cleaning liquids simply speed up the procedure and save time.

So, for cheap bicycles, a cheap lubricant will be optimal. Lithium will be out of competition. It can be purchased at any auto parts store. For expensive bikes, it makes sense to purchase calcium lubricants because they do not react chemically with aluminum alloys and do not wash out as quickly with water. To care for threaded connections, you can choose a high-quality graphite lubricant.

If you love your bike, polish it with a soft cloth and paint polish. As a result, it will look “shiny” and become more protected from the adhesion of dirt.

Original publication - on cortobike.ru

twentysix.ru

Bicycle fork: remove, disassemble, assemble, install

It would seem, why do bicycles and cyclists need a suspension fork? But for both, it is extremely useful: a properly selected and adjusted fork can significantly reduce the load on the palms and hands while riding, improve the handling of the bicycle, and in addition, increases the service life of the frame and steering bearings by reducing the vibration effect. With proper care, the service life of the fork can be extended several times. This will certainly be pleasant for the thrifty owner of a two-wheeled friend, given the high cost of bicycle forks.

The fork requires:

cleaning and lubricating the feet on the seals - every 100-150 km of the distance traveled;
inspection for the appearance of cracks in the “pants” of the fork, lubrication of oil seals with disassembly - every 500-1000 km;
for oil forks - change the oil annually or after 4000-5000 km.

Among the tools necessary for working with a bicycle fork are a screwdriver, pliers, a wrench, and a small adjustable gas wrench; Considering the specifics of working with oil, it is advised to stock up on rags or rags; in addition, the work can be done with gloves to protect your hands from damage and contamination.

How to remove a fork from a bicycle?

To remove the fork from the bike For subsequent maintenance or complete replacement, it is necessary to turn the bicycle upside down, release the brake (if it is a rim brake) and remove the front wheel. At the second stage, the steering wheel with stem is removed, then the steering tube.

After this, remove the fork; it is extremely important not to lose the balls from the bearings. Then the support cone ring is removed from the fork stem (usually using a sharp gauge, carefully pressing it on all sides). After this we have a fork ready for service.

Some users advise testing even new, just purchased forks, explaining this by the need for individual debugging of the element.

How to disassemble a bicycle fork (using the example of a spring-elastomer fork) read below:

it is necessary to unscrew the lower mounting bolts using hexagons;
Unscrew the bolt that regulates the force of the Preload spring (pay attention to the stroke of the adjustment bolt - this is how much the bolt compresses and decompresses the spring);
get the elastomer, which limits the movement of the spring (in some cases it is possible to cut the elastomer to the required size);
it is necessary to unscrew the bolts and carefully remove the “pants”, watching out for any dirt, oil and water flowing out;
The oil seals (boots) are removed from the “pants” using a screwdriver, and the baschings are easy to remove by turning them around their axis.

At this point, the process of disassembling the fork ends and the process of caring for the resulting parts begins: a thorough inspection of the elements is necessary for damage, cracks, etc., thoroughly rinse with kerosene and lubricate the elements that need it. It is important to lubricate the springs with a thick lubricant for better fork performance.

How to assemble a bicycle fork?

Fork assembly takes place in the reverse order of the parsing process and is inappropriate to describe it further. The main thing is to carefully follow the order of the described procedures.

How to replace a fork on a bicycle?

It is not recommended for an untrained and inexperienced user: if simple maintenance can be done, then it is better to leave such a procedure to a qualified specialist. As a last resort, perform the replacement under the supervision of a specialist, following his recommendations.

Caring for your fork is the key to its “health”

Lubricate a bicycle fork it is necessary once a season, but with active use this procedure may be required more often. The process of lubricating a spring-elastomer fork is extremely simple: oil is poured under the boot using a syringe, then the fork is developed, and the remaining lubricant is removed with a soft cloth. It is best to apply Teflon lubricant to the legs near the seals (aerosol lubricant is increasingly being used).

Among the best lubricants masters call silicone and transparent greases.

No less important is keeping the fork clean: Be sure to wipe the fork legs near the boots after each bike ride to prevent dirt from getting into the oil and disrupting the proper operation of the bike.

Adjusting a bicycle fork begins with setting the sag, then the rebound (if its adjustment is provided), to which the low-speed and high-speed compression will be adjusted. Experts note that adjustments should be made in stages: make one change - check the movement of the bike by walking, only then change the next parameter. If you do not adhere to this recommendation, the owner risks missing the difference in stroke and blurring the effect of adjusting the fork.

ADVICE! You need to start the fork adjustment process from the neutral position: half-adjusted rebound, compression arrows turned completely counterclockwise.

Is it worth repairing a bicycle fork yourself?

Of course, without the appropriate experience and skills in repairing bicycles, it is better not to take risks and turn to competent specialists. But over time, every cyclist who is more or less interested in his vehicle begins to understand the intricacies, remember the names of parts and their functions, and feel the root of the problems. Therefore, over time, even such a difficult task as repairing a fork can become an easy procedure.

Difficulties may arise due to the design features of the plug itself or its breakdown.

Usually, owners are divided into two types: some people prefer to ride a bicycle until all its systems fail and it is impossible to save such a “patient”, others prefer to carefully monitor the condition of the bike and prevent any breakdowns.

Rear shock absorber: care features

When 9 out of 10 people say “bike shock absorber,” they think of a bicycle fork. They are partly right, but the fork is a front shock absorber, while a bicycle may also have a rear shock absorber. A bicycle equipped with a front and rear shock absorber is called a dual-suspension bicycle.

The rear shock absorber, regardless of design, needs regular cleaning and lubrication: the frequency is selected individually, but the procedure is carried out at least once a season. Thick lubricants with a wide temperature range are used as an ideal lubricant for suspension joints.

If unexpected difficulties arise with the shock absorber, such as creaking or other extraneous sounds, then it will be quite difficult to find the cause on your own. As a trial option, it is recommended to lubricate it with silicone aerosol, but if the squeak remains, then the reason is most likely deeper, and the bike needs to be inspected by a specialist.

( ArticleToC: enabled=yes )

Some time after buying and running in the bike, extraneous noise appears - the pedals creak, and the chain begins to become covered with rust. This indicates the urgent need to lubricate the bicycle.

Lubricant for the bicycle, chain and chassis, first of all, is needed so that the “iron horse” lasts longer.

Bicycle parts that belong to the chassis require lubrication first of all, since they are responsible for movement on this vehicle and are combined into a system:

The main part of a bicycle is the chain. It provides the bike with movement, so the quality of the lubricant affects the technical condition of the vehicle. A signal that something is wrong with her is the appearance of a tinkling sound. In addition to lubrication, it is necessary to take into account its natural wear and tear. This part requires replacement after 1.5 thousand kilometers traveled;
the axles of the brake system are also important for timely stopping of transport and safe movement;
roller wheels responsible for tensioning the chain, i.e. resisting weakening;
The gear selector switches forward and reverse. The first is responsible for switching gears, the other for increasing speed. Lubrication and proper maintenance help these parts perform their functions flawlessly;
brake and shift cables. These parts that transmit the braking command are important for bike lubrication because they hold together and motivate the parts involved in the gear shifting and braking process. To lubricate the cables, just drop a drop of oil at the output and input, press the switches several times and press the pedals;
carriage unit. This unit contains a special cup that keeps the bearings from falling out and the pedals from spinning, helping to rotate them easily. Therefore, lubrication is important for safe cycling;
Wheel bearings also need lubrication. Their function is to keep the wheels from “dangling” while driving and to help with easy torsion;
shock absorbers. Thanks to them, the bike moves smoothly. In addition, they soften the impact when the wheel hits obstacles and resist vehicle breakdown. In order for them to perform their functions effectively, you need bicycle lubricant, which is applied to the rear shock absorber and the fork located at the front.

If the owner of the bicycle lubricates the bicycle - the chain and the listed parts - in advance, then problems will not arise, and the service life of the bike will increase significantly.

What to use to lubricate your bike

There are a huge number of oils and lubricants on the market suitable for this purpose:

liquid oils belong to the category intended for lubricating chains of any type, thereby ensuring their reliable operation;
two-component aerosols are used to lubricate: switches, cables, threads. When spraying aerosols, the oils contained in their composition penetrate into hard-to-reach places, providing lubrication of parts that are not possible to process in any other way. Some aerosols contain kerosene, so they are an effective assistant for separating worn parts (“LM47”, “LM40”);
Plastic lubricants are used if it is necessary to lubricate or seal any type of joint. Some contain calcium. They are used as a lubricant for joints and assemblies. This type of bicycle lubricant includes: “Unitol”, “Solidol”, etc. Their advantages include the ability to stay on the elements for a long time, ensuring their efficient operation. Another type of plastic lubricant for bicycles are lubricants with lithium: “Fiol”, “Litol - 24”, etc.
chassis elements retain their characteristics for a long time.

What is important to know about bike lubrication

It would seem that there is no wisdom in such a simple matter as lubricating a bicycle, but this is not so. It is important to know what type of bicycle lubricant is best suited for a particular part, in what quantity, and what manipulations with the element being processed will be required.

Basic requirements that must be met when applying lubricants to bicycle elements:

Lubricating the bicycle chain

The amount of lubricant is important to lubricate the chain. Do not use thick lubricants. To lubricate the chain, the amount of lubricant is small.

How to lubricate the brake system axle

For lubrication, it is better to use aerosols that can treat elements installed in hard-to-reach places. Spraying should be dosed and done carefully.

Lubricate the roller wheels which regulate chain tension. Here it is more appropriate to use aerosol bicycle lubricant.

Gear shifters. Aerosols and oils are equally good for them.

To lubricate cables and switches Both aerosol lubricants and oils are used - just apply a drop at a time to the exit and entrance of the ropes.

Carriage. The lubricant for this bicycle part should fit into the bottom of the cup and be thick.

Bearings. The lubrication method is similar to lubrication of the carriage.

Shock absorbers. Oil is poured into the fork, and liquid bicycle lubricant is poured into the rear shock absorber.

There will be no problems with the bike if it is properly cared for, i.e. a competent approach to choosing a lubricant for a bicycle.

How to care for your chain

The bike chain is the most important part, and therefore requires special care.

Chain lube for chain lubrication

Innovations do not always turn out to be necessary and useful. It is not so difficult to do without many. It is possible that many people, who do not see the difficulties in removing and cleaning the chain in the classical way, think the same about a chain remover - a machine designed to make it easier to care for a chain.

But, if for them the procedure does not present any difficulties, then for beginners and girls, it is a serious problem. But it’s impossible not to take care of this part.

For them, a chain breaker is the way out. The devices are available in several types. They are distinguished by reliability, configuration and cost.

Budget options include products from the following companies: Birzman, Bike Hand, Barbieri. The machines from these manufacturers are equipped with 3 wheels and a capacity. There are more components, and the machine is more convenient if the manufacturer is Kettenmax, but the price is much higher. A specific person chooses equipment according to financial capabilities.

How does a chain breaker work?

The main advantage of such machines is the washing of the chain, which is not removed from the bike. Fill the tank of the machine with washing liquid (50 ml), insert the chain inside the device and rotate the pedals smoothly, holding the bike and the machine. It is advisable to perform the procedure outdoors. If the weather or other reasons do not allow it, and I have to do it at home so as not to spoil the floor, I cover it with newspapers or rags, and use a detergent: kerosene, white spirit or Fairy. After cleaning from dirt, lubricate this part. To do this, you will need to replace the fluid in the reservoir with lubricant. Then repeat the described steps, i.e. pedal.

The principle of operation of the device made it justifiable and accessible to everyone.

After the chain has been cleaned of contaminants, it needs to be lubricated, which requires replacing the flushing fluid in the machine with lubricant.

Chain lubrication

If you have experience in removing a chain, you can do without a chain breaker.

To lubricate the chain, follow the following sequence:

the chain is moved to the middle sprockets to reduce the tension: this makes it easier to clean and remove dirt from it in order to process the links;
cleaning from dirt. This is done using a clean rag or brush. Wipe the chain without skipping any sections;
applying lubricant to a bicycle chain. It is more correct to use chain lubricant (aerosols are less preferable). To lubricate the parts, turn the pedals in the opposite direction;
scroll them at the same speed for better penetration of the lubricant;
removal of excess. Excess bicycle lubricant is removed with a dry, clean cloth so that it does not collect dirt and interfere with normal operation.

Chain Lubricants

Teflon bicycle lubricant has high characteristics:

being between the moving parts of the chain, it is not subject to friction;
needs diluents for better penetration;
applied in a thin layer.

Silicone bicycle and chain lubricant is resistant to wear of chain elements. Dust does not “sit” on it. It is not applied in a thick layer.

Lubricants containing wax. They are effective, applied in an extremely thin layer to prevent clogging of bushings and links. Before application, the part is thoroughly cleaned. They are inferior in performance to Teflon bicycle lubricant, but are quite effective.

Chain lubrication intervals

Experts are divided on this issue. But everyone agrees with some decisions:

if it becomes difficult to go for a walk, you need to lubricate the chain;
if riding for more than three hours, check this part; it may need to be lubricated;
If extraneous sounds appear, then the chain is dry.

Analyzing everything, we understand that it is correct, every time, after leaving 100 km behind us, to clean and lubricate the most important part of the bicycle.

Why do you lubricate the fork?

Forks from different manufacturers differ from each other.

We can talk about the sequence of actions associated with their lubrication only conditionally, since each has different nuances:

the fork will need to be cleaned and the wheel removed;
Unscrew the bolts holding the fork pants in the rods, and then remove the regulator;
the next step is to remove the brake system and fork pants;
Used lubricant is removed from the rods;
remove the retaining rings from the seals;
the fork's pants are wiped inside;
thick lubricant is applied to the seals, and oil is poured into the fork pants (it is better to use it with grease);
Having prepared the parts, assemble the fork, lubricating the inner surface with an aerosol.

How often are shock absorbers lubricated?

The principle of their disassembly was described above. It remains to be understood that you need to lubricate the shock absorbers daily if you ride in the rain and weekly if you ride in the sun. It is recommended to use aerosol and oil lubricants.

What lubricant is used for bearings?

For them, it is chosen so as to ensure uninterrupted operation for a long time. One of these can be considered lithium, which can last a year without replacement. Before application, the bearings are thoroughly washed with kerosene, allowed to dry, and then the lubricant is placed in the separator. It holds the bearing balls together. You can apply it directly into the cup, then pressing the balls.

Bicycle lubrication, or how pedals are lubricated

First of all, they need to be disassembled. After removing the pedals, remove the plugs covering the nuts. Next, unscrew the nuts, remove the lock washers and the cone. Having taken out the bearings, remove the pedals from the axles.

Wash the parts in kerosene, wipe them, and let them dry. Now, lubricant is applied to them and the axle. All that remains is to reassemble the bearing.

How to lubricate the carriage

We immediately warn you that there will be no problems with disassembly: the carriage is disassembled in detail, and thick lubricant is used for lubrication. Liquid - applied from above, and it is absorbed inside.

To prevent traces of corrosion and extraneous squeaks from appearing on your bike after winter, use Nanoprotech lubricant. It is applied before “sending” the bicycle for the “winter holidays”.

Video: Bicycle maintenance (washing and lubricating the chain, washing the bike)

The most popular and cheapest shock absorber is spring-elastomer. This shock absorber is very simple in design: a polymer rod is inserted inside a steel spring, which dampens vibrations.

The second type is oil-spring, more modern and reliable. Due to its relative cheapness and simplicity of design, it has become one of the most common in cycling.

Shock absorber lubrication

All parts must be cleaned of road dirt and oil residues. Experts recommend using exclusively branded lubricant or using universal Teflon lubricant. After this, you should lubricate the parts and assemble the fork back.

The oil-air shock absorber is considered the most demanding to maintain. To clean and lubricate it, you need to:

Unscrew and wash the shock absorber. This will prevent debris from entering the air chamber;
Open the valves and release the pressure. If everything is done correctly, the mechanism will easily compress and unclench;
Next, the mounting parts are removed from the shock absorber, and the air chamber itself is disassembled;
Then you should remove the oil seal. If any parts are damaged, it’s time to replace them or make other repairs. If everything is intact, then old grease and mechanical impurities are removed, and you can begin assembling the bicycle fork;
Fork oil is poured onto the shock absorber body, placed vertically. Gaskets and seals are installed in place. The air chamber is pushed all the way so that no air escapes from it. It is better to add a little more oil, and only then screw it back to the shock absorber body;
Next, the shock absorber is inflated to the required pressure and installed in place.

Fans of safe driving know well that this very safety is largely ensured by nothing more than excellent shock-absorbing devices. But for them to work properly, you need to know what oil to pour into the shock absorbers, how to do it and in what volume. After all, if there is not enough lubricant, the car’s braking distance begins to increase. It will have to be repaired much more often.

What happens if you don't change the lubricant in the shock absorber?

The main function of these devices is to dampen vibrations that occur when the vehicle moves. If the lubricant is replaced in a timely manner, the movement of the machine will be softer and it will gain good stability when entering a turn. The tires will have much more grip on the road.

When the shock absorber is faulty, the following fail:

Hubs;
Bearings;
Tire wear becomes uneven.

In some cases, tires simply lose traction. As a result, an accident occurs. The correct operation of the device depends on two main factors:

Oil volume;
Its consistency.

Shock absorbers are available with or without a membrane. Each such part requires a certain amount of lubricating mixture.

Elements equipped with a membrane are equipped with a rubber diaphragm that separates air from the lubricant. If there is an excess of it, the air space will decrease and the damper will begin to work unstably.

In mechanisms where there is no membrane, there is no air gap. Oxygen, which ensures full movement of the rod, is located directly in the oil itself. When the rod begins to move inward, a decrease in viscosity occurs. Lack or excess of lubrication leads to malfunction of the part.

What kind of oil is poured into shock absorbers?

Today, in almost every car store you can easily purchase shock absorber fluid. ATF oil is considered the most popular. Its main feature is the viscosity coefficient.

If the composition is very thick, it will impede the movement of the piston. With a liquid consistency, the shock absorber wears out much faster. The manufacturer must indicate the viscosity level of the oil.

When purchasing lubricant, it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the climatic zone of residence. For each region, a specific viscosity value is selected.

Good to know! Thick oil is poured into the shock absorber if the car is driven on good roads without damage. If there are too many uneven spots, potholes and potholes on the road, the car loses its ability to maneuver.

Grease consistency

When the shock absorber is filled with viscous fluid, the car can be easily controlled at high speed. It is much more stable during normal driving, as well as when making sharp turns.

The presence of a liquid consistency causes several characteristic differences:

At high speeds, the vehicle becomes unstable when entering a turn;
Improves tire adhesion to the road surface;
The car becomes easy to drive;
Due to the positive effect of lubricant on the shock absorber, the vehicle’s mass quickly moves;
Liquid lubricant is designed for driving on uneven roads, so it is used in shock-absorbing elements of SUVs.

Sometimes drivers fill the shock absorber with used oil from the gearbox. But such a replacement should be temporary. Experts recommend using original oils:

GRG-12;
IHL-12.

In regions where there is severe frost, you can use a transmission compound with a viscosity level of 75W.

It is prohibited to fill in lubricating mixtures containing aggressive additives among the components. They can destroy rubber seals.

How to determine the right amount of oil

When there is no anti-breakdown in the shock absorber, high accuracy may not be adhered to. But if you fill in little oil, IFP may become stuck, causing the shock absorber to start knocking and quickly fail. If there is a lot, sometimes it knocks out the plug of the expansion tank.

A shock absorber equipped with anti-breakdown should only be filled with a strictly measured amount of motor oil. If there is a lack of it, the anti-breakdown simply stops working. Excess will lead to failure of the damping element. Usually 250 ml of oil is poured into it. Sometimes this figure decreases to 100 ml.

Certain factors influence the calculation:

Rod size - the diameter is taken.
The amount of stroke of the rod. Measured in millimeters.
IFP diameter. Determined by the expansion tank. The internal diameter is taken.
The area of the rod is measured.
The area of the piston is calculated.
IFP progress.
IFP depth. If this size is too large, the shock absorber is not filled enough.

Taking into account all the above factors, you can make accurate calculations and fill in the required amount of lubricant.

Cleaning and lubricants
Experienced cyclists recommend several topical products for excellent cleaning of dirt and lubrication of the bike.

Lubricants with silicone
Easy to apply to bike parts. They are able to “repel” dust and water, but dry out faster.

Graphite lubricants
Good tools for overloaded nodes. An important plus is the long-term effect. The downside is that the lubricant very much stains everything that comes into contact with it.

Bearings in wheel axles require frequent lubrication. The care scheme for them is identical to the previous one.

If you love your bike, polish it with a soft cloth and paint polish. As a result, it will look “shiny” and become more protected from the adhesion of dirt.

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