DIY air suspension if. DIY air suspension: characteristics and installation. Air suspension on a VAZ

The topic will not contain comparisons of bagels and sleeves. High-quality Pindos air springs will not be mentioned.

Only accessibility, simplicity, cheapness.

So, we will talk about Scania cabin cushions.

Pre-made cabin cushions are definitely cool and wonderful. Finished it with a file and installed it. What could be simpler?

But what if the pillow cannot be installed in this form, if other characteristics are needed, a smaller stroke?

One of the most common problems when installing air suspension on a VAZ PP is the location of the lower bracket of the rear cushion. If you place it on a spring cup, then the plastic part of the bracket will be higher than the body of the stand and if the suspension breaks, there will be a blow to this same plastic bracket. In addition, it will not allow the car to sink lower.
Well, we saw off the cup, grind out the retaining ring and weld it 5-7 cm below the spring cup. The problem with the protruding bracket is solved, but another problem appears.

The spring cup is located at the level of the rubber profile, and by lowering the bottom point of the cushion lower, we position the bracket just opposite the wheel - accordingly, there is a chance to wipe the cushion, especially when installing wheels of larger width and diameter.
There are several options for solving the problem: installing donuts, moving the mount back up, installing spacers on the wheels, shortening the cushion and installing other braces.

Another equally common problem is the discrepancy between the inner diameter of the cushion and the diameter of the front strut housing. The same problem can be attributed to the inability to put the pillow on through the outer nut or protrusion on the stand.

This problem is also solved in different ways.

Someone sharpens plastic:

Someone makes special cases:

Well, one more option:

All of these options provide for the installation of only a full-size sleeve.

But what if you really want a short cut or need to reduce the sleeve length?
This issue cannot be resolved without solving the problem of sealing the sleeve.

In the factory version, the sleeve is crimped with a special ring. The ring has certain strength characteristics and resistance to corrosion; in addition, to crimp this ring you need a special machine (like those that crimp RVDs). All this makes the compression method almost impossible to do at home.

But there is one relatively simple way to shorten Scanian pillows.
Quote : " The process of shortening the same Scanie pillow is as follows. The elastic is cut with a knife along the edge of the metal ring. The metal ring slips out with little effort without a rubber band. Shorten the elastic band of the pillow to the required length. We put the same metal ring on the pillow and press it into place like an oil seal using a machine or press and soap solution. On Scanie pillows, it is better to shorten the pillows at the top, since they have a metal upper support.
The pillows in this photo are shortened in this way. Although the rings are different, they are machined for the convenience of folding the pillow. New rings can be sharpened, but the dimensions must be taken from the originals.
"

Knowing the general principle, you can order the necessary components for the turner:

It’s not very convenient to look for a press every time to assemble and disassemble. Therefore, sealing can be done using bolted cones:

There is another way. This method is based on the connection principle of the CAMMOZI union nut for plastic tubes.

Lowering a car means reducing ground clearance, that is, reducing the distance between the lower part of the body and the road surface. A lowered car has a sportier appearance and is more stable when driving at high speeds. The appearance does not have a special impact on the driving properties of the car, but an incorrect reduction in ground clearance can lead to emergency situations. With the right approach to this issue, the car on the track “presses” to the road, which allows the driver to control it better. Otherwise, the machine may become uncontrollable.

Ways to lower a car.

Air suspension replacement It is considered the most expensive way to change the vehicle's clearance, but also more reliable. Thanks to the high characteristics of the air suspension, driving comfort, smoothness and load-carrying capacity of the car are improved. This option for reducing ground clearance is quite safe and has a positive effect on the driving performance of the car.

Air suspension is the optimal solution for various individual projects, hot rods, custom motorcycles, muscle cars, etc. Air suspension is relevant for cars with an exclusive body kit; the system optimizes vehicle control, and in the maximum lowering mode it especially advantageously emphasizes the design of the body kit.


Suspension with adjustable ground clearance includes special struts and a set of springs. Adjustable struts allow the car owner to independently change the ground clearance, which is very convenient. Without any problems, you can raise the car in the winter and lower it again in the spring.

Lowered suspension does not provide the ability to adjust the ground clearance, which is not suitable for many car owners. The kit includes shock absorbers and springs that are slightly shorter than standard ones. This option can be considered less expensive.


Other options for lowering a car, such as removing the coils on the springs or installing shorter ones, but without changing the shock absorbers, are fraught with consequences. It is better not to do these and other types of “tuning” yourself, but to contact specialists who will select the optimal air suspension option for a specific car and install it.

Air suspension and its components


Air suspension is the replacement of standard shock absorbers with air bags installed between the wheel axle and the car frame. This system also includes pressure sensors, a receiver, a compressor and a control panel. Depending on the requirements of a particular client, elements of the new suspension are selected. The compressor and receiver are selected based on the rate of air accumulation. For example, in everyday use of a car there is often no need to change the ground clearance; therefore, there is no point in installing powerful units.


The receiver not only facilitates the rapid injection of air, but also when the air bags are sharply compressed, it softens the impact on the body. The softness of the suspension is directly proportional to the size of the receiver. Electromechanical air distributors make the system more stable and easier to control. The clearance depends proportionally on the pressure in the air bags, and it can be adjusted using a control panel installed inside the car.

The simple operation of the air suspension makes it a practical and optimal system for lowering the car. The advantage of air suspension is its adaptability to the driver. That is, any driver can adjust the suspension so that the car is as comfortable to drive as possible, stable and “soft” when driving.


Air suspension installation
As already mentioned, the driving properties of the car depend on the suspension, and to ensure proper operation of the system, it must be installed by a good specialist. Not every car enthusiast is able to remove standard shock absorbers and springs, not to mention the high-quality installation of a complex air suspension system. To carry out such work, you need a special tool and, of course, a lot of experience and skills.


Installing air springs in some cases requires preparing or converting existing mounts into a custom version. A lot of preparatory work significantly complicates and delays the process. Other elements of the air suspension system, in addition to installing the units, need to be connected to the vehicle's electrical wiring. The connection of all electromechanical valves, the compressor and the receiver must be combined into one system. If the connection is incorrect, the system will not be able to produce the desired result, and the money will be wasted.


With the help of air suspension, it is possible to lower the car and improve driving performance. A correctly installed system will be the key to more comfortable and safe travel in your favorite car. Installing air suspension is possible on many cars, you just need to choose the right option and configuration, and also do not forget that for many cars there are no ready-made options, which means that the tuning studio will have to make a custom version specifically for your car, and the cost of such work will be accordingly will be quite high. Before any car tuning, you need to correctly compare your desires and the capabilities of your car. The choice of such systems on the market is quite large; for certain cars, purchasing air suspension will not be difficult.

Some of the best manufacturers of pneumatic systems are the following brands: AirREX, Accuair, RideTech.

Air suspension is a type of automobile suspension with adjustable ground clearance; this design is often used on trucks, crossovers, and premium cars. Pneumatics in the chassis ensure a smooth ride and allow the vehicle to adapt to different road conditions. This article will discuss the design of an air suspension, the disadvantages and advantages of a chassis with pneumatic elements, as well as the possibility of installing this type of device yourself.

Although, in general, factory-made air suspension (AS) elements are not cheap, there are many car owners who want to make tuning - a do-it-yourself upgraded car suspension is much cheaper than the standard one originally installed on the car. Another big advantage of homemade assembly is that some components of the pneumatic system can be purchased quite cheaply, without having to buy a ready-made kit.

Types of air suspension, main elements

The most important elements of any automobile air suspension are pneumatic stops, which are elastic elements, often installed instead of standard shock absorbers and simultaneously perform their functions. Adjusting the position of the body above the road can be done either manually or automatically; pneumatic systems vary in complexity and design features. PP usually consists of the following components:

  • elastic pneumatic elements (pneumatic struts), which are actuators;
  • a compressor that supplies compressed air to the pneumatic system;
  • receiver - compressed air storage;
  • air lines connecting the system components into one;
  • air suspension control unit;
  • various sensors (acceleration and body position, wheel acceleration).

If the pneumatic elements are also shock-absorbing struts, it becomes possible to adjust not only the ground clearance, but also the stiffness of the suspension. There are three main types of PP:


On automatically controlled systems, the air suspension is adaptive, that is, it itself, without driver intervention, changes the stiffness of the shock absorbers and ground clearance depending on the condition of the road surface and speed.

Air suspension device for a truck

Initially, pneumatic elements in the chassis were used by the Americans in aviation and on military trucks; they appeared on executive cars in the early thirties of the last century. Currently, “pneumo” is most often used on heavy-duty vehicles and truck tractors; it is not so common on passenger cars due to the high cost of parts.

On trucks, various types of air suspension can be used; most often, the air elements are placed between the frame and the axle using special brackets, and the design itself can be:

  • spring;
  • independent type (with springs):
  • torsion bar

Mostly on trucks, single-circuit (double-circuit) PP is used, and it is installed mainly on the rear axle, although recently it is often equipped with pneumatic elements and front independent suspension, which is also found on foreign-made buses.

Freight vehicles can also be equipped with hydropneumatics; hydropneumatic struts simultaneously serve as vibration dampers (shock absorbers) and elastic elements. Hydropneumatics are successfully used on vehicles with independent suspension, and are used on all-terrain vehicles, trailers and semi-trailers.

One of the latest developments of pneumohydraulic suspension is DTS, such a system is equipped with modern electronics and has the ability to:

  • stabilize rolls in any road conditions;
  • withstand heavy axle loads;
  • Flexibly change the stiffness of shock-absorbing elements.

In the DTS-type air-hydraulic suspension, each wheel is independently controlled; the system provides an optimal comfort/safety ratio when driving.

Advantages and disadvantages of air suspension

Like any component in a car, PP has its pros and cons; the main advantages of air suspension include:

  • smooth ride;
  • low noise level when driving;
  • change in ground clearance depending on road conditions;
  • possibility of adjusting suspension stiffness.

The adaptive air suspension is especially convenient to use; it allows you to increase rigidity when the car enters turns, thereby minimizing roll and increasing the stability of the car. When driving a car on a straight, flat road, the adaptive PP reduces the ground clearance, thereby improving aerodynamics and reducing fuel consumption.

Unfortunately, air suspension also has serious disadvantages:

  • low maintainability - if the PP elements fail, almost all of them must only be replaced; it is impossible to restore the parts;
  • intolerance to low temperatures; in cold weather, pneumatic struts often refuse to work;
  • high cost of spare parts;
  • Many car models have poor sensor and wiring protection.

As a rule, pneumatic parts fail faster than conventional suspension parts, and replacing parts requires higher qualifications from auto repairmen.

DIY air suspension

Most often, car owners independently install single-circuit or double-circuit air suspension with manual control; automatic four-circuit air suspension is too expensive, especially there is no point in installing it on budget cars. The simplest option for making your own air suspension is to buy a ready-made kit, although installation here also takes quite a bit of time, but the convenience lies in the fact that the kit contains all the necessary spare parts and instructions are included. The disadvantage of installing a ready-made kit is the relatively high cost, for example, on a Lada Priora/Grant, VAZ BAGONE parts will cost around 40 thousand rubles or more, and this is in the basic version.

You can assemble the air suspension kit for the Lada yourself; it will turn out cheaper if some parts are not only from the Lada, for example:

  • air bags - from the Scania cabin;
  • connecting pipes - from the truck brake system (PVC);
  • receiver – gas cylinder VAZ-2109;
  • solenoid valves - from gas equipment;
  • compressor - type Falcon 820 or Berkut (model R17 or R20, the second option will be preferable).

Such little things as toggle switches, fittings or a pressure gauge are quite inexpensive and are sold not only in automobile stores, but also in hardware stores and on the market.

But the “prefabricated” version of installing the air suspension will take more time and will require additional adjustment of the parts in place. Most likely, the help of a turner will be required, for example, for turning spacers and accurately fitting air springs onto shock absorber struts.

Important points when installing air suspension yourself

When selecting air suspension spare parts, it is worth considering several important points; they determine how the system will function and whether everything will suit you in its operation:


Air suspension means comfort and ease of driving, but before you think about carrying out such tuning, you should first estimate your budget. Even self-installation, taking into account maximum savings, will not be cheap, you will have to spend a lot of time, but you have to pay for comfort.


I didn’t want to give money to someone to install the air suspension; besides, I wanted to go through everything myself. A goal arose - to assemble a budget air suspension kit whose workmanship would be at the proper level.

So, it all started with the purchase of four airbags with shock absorbers, then a compressor, HBO valves, fittings and, of course, a receiver were purchased. We didn’t look for the easy way out and took a gas cylinder instead of a spare tire, especially since we got it in working condition completely free of charge. But first things first:

About racks

The new standard SAAZ factory oil struts were taken as a basis, with two bump stop donuts left (which fit onto the shock absorber rod).
Price 8000 rub.

About air suspension cushions

Cushions from the cabin of a 4th generation Scania truck were installed on top of the pillars.
Price 3000r/piece.

About the air suspension receiver

A gas cylinder from a VAZ 2109 was used as a receiver. Why this one?
  • Firstly, it can withstand high pressure (up to 22 atm).
  • Secondly, it already has a check valve, which means there is no need to be clever.
  • Thirdly, the volume is large (45 liters), which means the car will rise quickly.

However, there is also a drawback - it is heavy. For those who value space in the trunk, a receiver from Kamaz (25L) is suitable, but keep in mind that then you will have to weld on fittings and install a check valve (ideal for classics).
The price of a cylinder from VAZ 2109 is 2500 rubles.

About HBO valves

4 solenoid valves were used for HBO (two for intake front/rear, two for discharge). If they are of high quality, they will withstand up to 25 atm.
Price 350r/piece.

About tubes

At first we decided to use fittings that fit perfectly (screwed into the HBO valves) and a 6mm oxygen hose, but it began to explode due to the heat. Therefore, advice for beginners: immediately build on pneumatic tubes (PVC), which are used in the brake systems of trucks. In our case, pneumatic tubes are used from the receiver to the intake valves (6mm), and from the compressor to the receiver (8mm).
Price 35r/m.

About the air suspension compressor

First, we bought a Berkut R17 (18A) compressor (price 2950 rubles), which, in principle, suited us in everything (price, service life, performance). But the opportunity arose to take Berkut P20 (30A) (4950 rubles), the pumping speed increased, but all other parameters remained the same. When choosing, remember that other compressors in this price category will be inferior in terms of durability.

About air suspension control

The operation of the valves is controlled using toggle switches, there are currently three of them, since the system is two-circuit:
  • left toggle switch (3-position) to turn on/off the rear circuit.
  • right (3-position) to turn on/off the front circuit.
  • middle (2-position) to turn the compressor on/off.

About pressure gauges

There must be a pressure gauge and a moisture-oil separator between the compressor and the receiver. Where in the cabin to place pressure gauges to monitor the pressure in the circuits, everyone will decide for themselves. If you try, you can find nuts for connecting pneumatic tubes. Plus, it is done using quick releases so that, if necessary, you can pump in air from a home compressor, at a tire shop, or from a Kamaz truck, you never know what.
Price 80r/sh.

As a result, such an air suspension kit cost us about 17,000 rubles.

Air suspension diagram

At first it was decided to use a two-circuit circuit:
  1. front airbags
  2. rear airbags
  3. intake valves (lift)
  4. exhaust valves (lowering)
  5. compressor
  6. receiver
  7. moisture-oil separator
  8. crosspieces

As a result, I got tired of suffering on big turns and the ring, due to the fact that the front contour was common. The air from one airbag flowed into the other and the car tilted even more, it was decided to split the front. Thus, the result was a 3-circuit system, well, as always, it stood out, 2 or 4 circuits are generally accepted, but here! The diagram shows that more valves and toggle switches have been added:


Today the rear holds for a month, the front for 2 days, not enough, but not fatal (the engine is heavy). And yet, now you can control the suspension from the remote control, without any wires, the only negative is the small range of action, control from the remote control is obtained with only two circuits, there are few buttons. The front intake and exhaust valves had to be parallelized.

The process of installing air suspension and laying hoses

A lathe operator will be needed to make the shock absorber housing the correct size. The cushion has a diameter of 45 mm, so that it fits tightly on the body, it is ground or machined with adapter sleeves. Special sealing washers are also made.

On the front boots (these are the housings of the front struts, inside which the cartridge (shock absorber) is placed) the spring cups were removed. The rear cups were first lowered and then (when the 15" wheel rested) sawed off. The cushions have special seals relative to the shock absorber rod.

I think everyone knows how to install the racks, I won’t describe it. I didn’t want to drill additional holes in the car body, so we used drainage holes. They removed the rubber bands and pushed the oxygen hoses through them. All that remains is to secure them to the body with clamps.

We place the rear circuit above the rear beam, and from the cushions we run the hoses along the beam. The LPG valve for releasing air and lowering the car is installed on the gas tank mounting bracket. Don't forget to leave a supply of hose for raising or lowering the car. The hose itself is very flexible, so we attach it to the shock absorber with clamps. The rear circuit did not cause any problems.

The front contour was more difficult. The hose had to be led through the entire car, and here we were lucky, since the underbody was illuminated, and the hose was easily attached with clamps to the tube, then to the stabilizer and to the windshield.

We lead the hoses from the front airbags along the “whiskers” (steering rods), insert them into the engine compartment, install the crosspiece, route the hoses, install the air release valve, and the LPG valve.
We collect electrics, toggle switches, relays, fuses, wires. Everything is ready, all that remains is to check everything carefully. We fill the system with air, preferably no more than 8 atm, close the garage and look for air leaks by ear. If there is nothing, use a soap solution to check all connections. If everything is fine, then we check the raising and lowering of the car and rejoice at the result!



About air suspension pressure

Ideally, the pressure in the system and the receiver should be constantly maintained around 8 atm, because the front airbags fully expand (the highest position) from 7.5 atm (the front is heavy due to the engine). 6 atm is enough for the rear airbags, it is lighter. If you do not take care of the Berkut compressor, then it is capable of pumping up 12 atm, and this is fraught with bad consequences (rupture of the hoses or tearing off the fittings, or swelling of the compressor pneumatic hose, which will break after 5 times), all this has been checked and tested!
For pillows, it is considered normal if the system lowers itself (front or rear) in two minutes. Ideally, of course, a week or a month.

About wheel alignment

We set the wheel alignment of the pneumatic struts as usual. We adjust it in the position in which we most often drive (middle height), because in the lowest driving position the camber will be positive, and in the highest driving position it will be negative. Don’t forget about this when driving, because stability and speed change, you shouldn’t joke with it, it’s dangerous!

By the way, you can increase or decrease the vehicle's ground clearance in other ways.

If I decide to install air suspension, then..

Do-it-yourself air suspension was conceived a long time ago. The obstacles to its installation were financial difficulties and technical issues. But they were finally overcome.

The air suspension was installed with my own hands on a 1986 model, in the SL configuration.

Air suspension diagram

The air suspension on the car is built according to a four-circuit design with 8 valves, 2 valves per cushion - one valve for air supply, the second for return. The scheme will allow you to effectively control each air spring: lower the left side, raise the right side or vice versa, lower the front of the car and raise the rear, etc.

Fig.1 Moskvich-2140


Fig.2

Air suspension components

Unfortunately, they do not produce ready-made air suspension kits for domestic cars, so I assembled the air suspension with my own hands. Main components of air suspension - air springs from America. Having studied the range of produced airbags, taking measurements with a ruler so that the air pillows would fit in place of the springs and not rub against the lower arms, an order was made.

Also, solenoid valves were delivered from America. In addition to all of the above, we purchased: fittings, tees, nipples, etc., a compressor - from a car store, an oxygen hose - from the construction market.

For the front suspension, RE-5 air springs from the American company Slam Specialties were chosen. The outer diameter, depending on the load and pressure, is 130-139 mm. With a larger diameter, the air springs rubbed against the sides of the lower arm. In addition, the RE-5 has built-in bump stops, so the car's standard bump stops are not needed. For the rear suspension, Dominator 2500 cushions were purchased.


Fig.3 PP

The electromagnetic type valves for the air suspension were controlled under a voltage of 12 volts. The valves have a flow area of ​​15 mm and this allows them to pass a huge amount of air through themselves, which will make it possible to very quickly pump and bleed air from the air bag. With these valves, the Mosvich will rise and fall in one second. The valves are connected with 0.5 inch plumbing threaded fittings.


Fig.4 Air suspension components

At the very beginning, the Berkut R17 compressor was used for the air suspension, but its performance was rather weak. Therefore, it was replaced by the Berkut R20 compressor, which is half the price of a similar design Viair 400P.


Fig.5 Berkut R20

The receiver for the air suspension is an air cylinder with a volume of 20 liters from the brake system of a KAMAZ vehicle. Some modifications were made: the U-shaped supports were welded, cut from a channel and painted. It has 5 holes - two at each end, and one for draining condensate.


Fig.6 Receiver

Installing air springs on the front axle

The main feature of the front axle of cars from the 60s to the 80s is the placement of shock absorbers inside the springs. Therefore, we had to place the shock absorber differently. We also had to move the brake lines. The PP fastenings were made using metal pads 3 mm thick. The upper one is attached to the cross beam and the lower one to the lower arm.


Fig.7 Front axle


Fig.8 Disassembled front suspension


Fig.9 Air bags


Fig. 10 Shock absorber on a new mount


Fig. 11 Front axle with air spring


Fig.12 Front air suspension

Installing air springs on the rear axle

A 5 mm thick corner was attached to the spar, which served as an upper support for the Dominator 2500 PP. The lower mount of the PP was made of several plates, which were secured between the springs and spacers. Spacers were needed so that in the lower position the body would lower onto the bump stops. The spring leaves were reduced to 3 pieces, and the stepladders were replaced from IZH-2715, since they are longer.


Fig.13 Details


Fig.14 Rear inflated PP


Fig.15 Rear air suspension

Air suspension control

The air suspension is controlled by yourself using a wired remote control G1910 from Gainta with 8 buttons. You can control either one airbag or separately the front or rear suspension and left or right side.


Fig.17 Remote control


Fig. 18 PD diagram

 
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