Spokes: spoke tension and wheel alignment. Straighten the knitting needles. How to fix a figure eight on a bicycle with your own hands. How defects can form and why
Friends! This is probably not quite the Twentysix format, but I decided to post this small guide from the magazine here so that everyone has the opportunity to evaluate and discuss the format of the regular “Workshop” column. Also because, in the near future, we will try to carry out “import substitution” in relation to this category using one of the domestic bicycle workshops.
So, the motto of the article: “Independent spokes will certainly make you related to the bike. From you - skill and patience. From "Ryder" - step-by-step instructions."
1. To assemble the wheel (with camera) we will need: a wheel centering machine, an umbrella gauge, a caliper, a hammer, a blunt punch, a screwdriver, a folding meter, and a suitable spoke wrench of approximately 3.2 mm for standard square nipples.
2. First, we measure the effective diameter of the ERD rim: carefully measure the internal diameter of the rim and add the thickness of the rim wall. We will need this figure to calculate the length of the knitting needles.
3. Now let's measure the diameter (circumference) of the location (centers) of the spoke holes of the hub. Please note that the diameter of this circle can be different for each flange. And in most cases, the front and rear hubs differ in this indicator.
4. We prepare a “passport” for each bushing. We enter the diameters of the location of the spoke holes in it. Then we measure the length of the bushing axis (in this case – 142 mm). Divide this number in half and mark the middle of the sleeve. Now, having positioned the bushing on the sheet according to the drawing, measure the distance from its middle to each of the flanges (FD) using a caliper. In our case it is 33 and 20 mm. Note that due to the mounting of the brake rotor, the front hubs are also asymmetrical.
5.
To calculate the length of the spokes, we recommend using one of the online calculators. For example, the spoke length calculator on the DT Swiss website.
Translation of terms for the calculator: Front wheel – front wheel; Rear wheel – rear wheel; Rim Diameter / ERD – rim type and/or ERD (see above); Hub – bushing; Pitch circle diameter – PCD (see above); Flange distance – FD (see above); Ø of spoke hole – diameter of the spoke hole; No. of spokes – number of spokes; No. of intersections – number of intersections (type of spokes, in this case – three); Nipple – nipple type; Spoke length (precise) – exact length of the spoke; rounded – rounded length.
6. We pass the first spoke through any spoke hole in the hub flange from the inside on the rotor side and secure the spoke with a nipple in the second spoke hole of the rim from the hole for the camera nipple (bottom photo).
8. Having threaded the spoke through the hole in the hub flange (step 6), insert its end into the hole in the rim, leaving three free holes between adjacent spokes. Secure with nipples. That is, every fourth hole should have a spoke.
9.
Now we bring the spokes into their working position: holding the rim with one hand, we rotate the hub opposite to the direction of movement (see photo). The spokes should enter the rim at an obtuse angle.
10. We complete the spokes on the rotor side. To do this, we thread the next eight spokes through the remaining holes of the same hub flange from the opposite (outer) side.
11. Turning the loose threaded knitting needle in the direction of rotation of the hub (see step 9), we draw it behind the two closest fixed knitting needles and in front of the third. Then, as shown in the photo, we thread this spoke into the middle of the three free holes on the rim and secure it with a nipple. We do the same with all the other threaded knitting needles.
12.
There are splines on the thickened (end) part of the spoke nipples. Inserting a screwdriver or a socket wrench for spokes into the slot (see photo), screw the nipple onto the spoke two or three turns without using force.
13. Now we pass the first “reference spoke” (not to be confused with the “leading ones”) through the hole in the second flange from the inside. Before doing this, turn the wheel so that the tire valve is at the highest point. Focusing on the rim hole closest to the nipple in the direction of travel of the bicycle (on the left), we find the corresponding hole on the hub flange, also located in the direction of travel (see photo). We fix the knitting needle in this position. This way, there will be no intersection of spokes opposite the tire valve that would interfere with connecting the pump.
14. We insert the next knitting needle into the nearest hole in the flange to the left of the knitting needle - landmark. We thread this knitting needle into the hole from the outside, so that its head looks outward from the hub.
15. We thread the remaining seven knitting needles into every second hole in the flange (we do not insert them into the rim yet). At the same time, we make sure that the knitting needle does not fall into the triangle between the knitting needles of the other side, but remains free. Let's throw it over third knitting needle from the right from the reference spoke through it from the outside and insert it into the nearest free hole from the tire valve on the left (the “back, back, front, secure” principle). We insert the remaining spokes sequentially into every fourth hole of the rim so that they do not intersect with other spokes, and secure them with nipples.
16. We thread the remaining eight knitting needles in the same sequence from the inside of the flange into the free holes. Then they will need to be inserted into the free holes of the rim and secured.
17. Since all the other spokes are already secured, there is quite a bit of room for maneuver. Therefore, we take each of the last spokes with both hands and insert them into the corresponding hole in the rim, observing the pattern of three intersections “back, back, front” and the same angles of intersection of the spokes.
18. Now that we have a complete umbrella, we screw the nipples deeper onto each spoke until all the threads are out of sight - but no further!
19. Now we fix the wheel in the centering (editing) machine. To ensure that the wheel alignment line does not deviate to one side, we check that it is firmly fixed in the machine’s “fork” mounts. Then, starting from the tire valve, tighten all the short spokes of the wheel one full turn. On the front wheel it will be the left side in the direction the bike is moving, and on the rear wheel it will be the right side (transmission side). Then we move on to the knitting needles of the opposite side.
20. It is necessary to prevent friction of the spoke heads against the holes when the spokes vibrate. To do this, with careful blows using a hammer and a blunt punch, we align the head of each knitting needle with the surface of the flange.
21.
We tighten the spokes about a couple more turns in the sequence indicated above (first on the “short” side, then on the side of the long spokes). We remove the wheel from the machine and install the umbrella gauge on the end of the wheel hub on the side of the short spokes and on the rim on both sides. Using the adjusting wheel, we adjust the length of the umbrella axis in such a way as to eliminate the gaps at these three points (rim sides on the right and left, end of the bushing). Then we apply the umbrella gauge on the opposite side of the wheel (with long spokes).
22. If the rim is not equidistant from the hub, tighten all the spoke nipples on the corresponding side of the flange by half a turn. The adjustment should always be towards the long spokes. We check the result of the broaching by again installing the umbrella gauge on the wheel and aligning it.
23. We bring together both probes of the wheel dressing machine and bring them to the rim until one of the probes begins to cling to the rim. To straighten the ellipse, the nipples are always tightened only a quarter of a turn. The same number of spokes is always tightened on the left and right.
24. We mark the radial runout area with white tape. Tighten the spokes (clockwise relative to the outside of the rim) a quarter turn. And, if the runout area covers only five spokes, we slightly tighten the sixth one too, so as not to make a figure eight.
25. The figure eight is indicated by the lateral runout of the rim on the machine probe. To straighten it, slightly loosen the nipples on the beating side and tighten the nipples on the opposite side until the rim stops squeaking against the feeler gauge.
26.
Excessive tension can damage both the hub and the rim. To check the tension, squeeze two crossed knitting needles with medium force. The intersection point should not move more than one centimeter.
27. After all the broaches, you need to check the concentricity of the wheel again. If necessary, we correct it. We just make sure not to “tighten” the knitting needles.
28. To prevent the appearance of figure eights and ellipses, the wheel should be “crimped” after spoketing. We place the wheel on a strong stand and carefully lean on it with our weight, after which we again check it for concentricity and runout.
Perhaps all cycling fans sooner or later face the need to re-spoke their wheels. This is due to the fact that the wheel may lose its original shape and subsequently make further use of the bicycle impossible.
Causes of wheel deformation
There may be several reasons why a wheel becomes severely bent:
- This, of course, is the weight of the cyclist, which puts stress on the wheels day after day. Since a person’s weight can be different, the load accordingly is also different.
- Sudden braking of a bicycle can place additional stress on the wheel spokes.
- Sharp turns in a cyclist's path can also cause strain.
- Uneven terrain on which a bicycle rides often leads to problems with the wheels.
- A strong blow or fall will most likely result in a so-called figure eight.
- And, in the end, simply loose spokes will lead to nothing more than a deformed wheel.
These problems are not that bad and can be solved by re-spokeing the wheels. It is best if the user knows the assembly of the bike and can handle it on his own, because no one knows where the problem may occur. And, of course, in any service center, experienced specialists will provide services for any type of re-knitting.
Main types of wheel re-spokes
There are two main types of knitting needles:
- Radial.
- Tangential.
There are several more names that are clarifications of the pattern resulting from the spokes of the wheel:
- Mixed.
- Twisted knitting needles.
The main difference between radial knitting and cross or tangential knitting is that with the radial method the knitting needles do not intersect each other.
Features of radial spokes
Experienced specialists use this type of spokes mainly for front wheels. This is explained by the fact that they are less susceptible to stress from the pedals and brakes. But despite this, the wheel receives a colossal load, which is directed vertically. That is why when radial knitting, a large number of knitting needles are used. Mechanics recommend the optimal number of spokes is 32.
This type of spokes is not very reliable and therefore the only advantage of this type can be called the appearance of the wheel, thanks to which it received the name “sun”.
It is worth noting that with this method of knitting, it does not play a big role where the head of the knitting needle is facing. At the request of the cyclist, it can be directed inside the hub flanges or out.
Features of tangential knitting
This spoke design allows you to perfectly withstand all the loads that occur while riding. There is one nuance: the wider the angle formed between the flanges and the spoke, the stronger the wheel. This is explained by the fact that with this arrangement the load is distributed evenly without causing much harm to the bicycle.
Tangential spokes are ideal for rear wheels, including disc wheels. They are always provided with the load from the use of pedals and brakes. The most popular and durable pattern is the “three crosses”. This pattern has proven its strength and reliability over time and testing.
With mixed knitting, the central knitting needle in relation to the rim is positioned like in a “sun” knitting pattern, and the side knitting needles are crossed.
How to properly re-spoke a bicycle wheel
In order to correctly spoke a wheel, you must first know all the stages of such work. Thanks to a wide selection of parts in stores and markets, cyclists can decide for themselves what to buy. But you need to understand that this is a rather complex and time-consuming process. Therefore, you should not be upset if not everything works out right away. This skill comes with experience.
It is best to have an experienced mechanic help you for the first time, who will clearly explain and show all the stages of re-spoke.
It is important to prepare the necessary tools in advance. For such work, you may need a wheel straightening machine, a special spoke wrench, and a device for measuring spoke tension.
Re-spinning a bicycle wheel with your own hands, step-by-step instructions
The entire re-knitting process can in principle be divided into three stages:
- Determining the appropriate knitting needle length.
- Installation.
- Tension adjustment.
The correct calculation of the length of the knitting needle is calculated by a special, very complex formula. But special programs have now appeared on the Internet that will quickly calculate the length suitable specifically for a given bicycle. The calculator from Lexapskov is extremely popular. Users claim that this program is very easy to use and at the same time quite accurate in calculations.
The type of knitting is also indicated there, but basically it is knitting in three crosses. This method is perhaps the most popular. And only after all the calculations are completed, you can safely go to the store and buy the necessary knitting needles.
Installation is a rather long and labor-intensive process:
- It is recommended to lubricate the thread of each spoke with oil or grease. This is done to allow the nipples to rotate easily.
- The next step is to distribute the knitting needles into four equal groups.
- One group of spokes needs to be tucked into the flange away from you, and the other towards you. At the same time, experts advise starting with the one that is directed away from you.
- The rim should be held on your knees, which simplifies the knitting process.
- After threading the first group, you need to put on the nipple, while firmly securing the first spoke to the rim.
- And, counting from the first knitting needle, there are three holes, and insert on the fourth.
- If everything is done correctly, then there will be one empty hole between the spokes on the flange, and three holes on the rim.
- Next, the rim is turned over and work continues.
- You should take the spoke and run it so that it is parallel to the axis of the hub to the opposite flange.
- Be sure to ensure that the knitting needle rests strictly between the holes, after which it is inserted into the left one.
- Thus, all the spokes defined in the second group are located.
- Next, turn the wheel again with the right flange facing you and begin to insert the next spoke.
- The spoke is threaded through a hole in the flange, no matter which one, but from the inside.
- In this case, the spoke should intersect with three spokes installed earlier on the same flange.
- Next, you will have to bend the needle a little so that it can go behind the cross needle.
- It is very important that after three crosses there remains one hole between the knitting needles, which is already occupied.
- All other spokes are installed in the same way.
- At this stage, it is easy to detect an error: if the spoke does not reach the desired hole and the nipple cannot be screwed on.
Spoke tensioning stage
- To do this, it is recommended to tighten all nipples by an equal number of turns.
- In this case, the spokes are absolutely free, but the degree of their tension is equal.
- Before tensioning, you can bend the spokes a little with your hands towards the flange itself so that they are straighter.
- You need to tighten the knitting needles evenly and slowly.
- If mold defects appear, you need to slowly remove them individually.
- In order to remove the egg, you must first understand where exactly the top point is on the rim. If the top coincides with one of the spokes, then this spoke should be tightened by a full turn, and the neighboring ones by half a turn each. And if the top gets between the spokes, then you should tighten them half a turn and that’s it.
- When the so-called umbrella appears, it is recommended to tighten all the spokes on the problematic side by half a turn.
This question is relevant for many. A figure eight on a bicycle wheel is the most common problem with bicycle deformation. Its main cause is loose knitting needles. Let's look at the correct tension of the knitting needles, types of figure eights and ways to correct them. It should be said right away: for preventive purposes, in order not to wonder too often how to fix figure eights on bicycle wheels, you need to tighten the spokes at least once a season.
What are the proper tools to open my wheel?
Or there are hubs with one motor and a separate control unit and battery, just like classic systems. Center motor kits are those that need to be mounted in the center of the bike. This allows for a low center of gravity and improved ride control.
Although they have many advantages, they are more difficult to assemble and require mechanical preparation. Clutch kits, up to two years ago, are widely used as rotating rollers that apply pressure to the wheel to impress the direction of rotation.
Radial runout
An “egg” is when the wheel rim becomes oval-shaped, that is, when one part of the rim is located closer to the center than the rest. The “egg” appears, as a rule, after unsuccessful landings and is much less common than the eight.
How to fix the figure eight on a bicycle, which is commonly called an “egg”? This is much more difficult to do than in the previous case.
Electric Cart: Yes, there is also an electric car that can push your bike! It goes from a simple LED display to actual computers that provide ride data in addition to basic information. The control unit controls the battery and power. Give preference to those that guarantee progressive dosing and no breaks.
The larger they are, the better, because they allow better control of engine assistance. This device stops the current flowing to the motor when it is braking. Here are some of the most famous conversion kits available and tested on the market. The choice is really wide and for all pockets.
1. The very first thing to do is remove the tire and make sure that it is the rim and not the tire that is deformed.
2. Turn the bike over and spin the wheel while placing an object on top. It is necessary to mark with chalk the part of the rim that will lift the object.
3. At the third stage, you need to simultaneously follow three directions: starting from the central knitting needle, loosen the tension; tighten the spokes located nearby by the same number of turns so that there is no figure eight; and tighten the spokes located at the opposite end of the wheel to prevent the appearance of an “egg” in another place. In order to correct the figure eight, experience is required, since this process is quite complex. You can start it over again if something doesn’t work out, by first loosening it and then tightening all the knitting needles at the same time.
It costs 599 euros. Weight varies from 5 to 7 kg and as assistance 3 or Costa is 700 euros. Remember the controversy about Fabian Cancellara, who was accused of using a trick to enter the Paris-Roubaix pedal? Okay, this is the famous "guilty" kit! It's almost invisible: the motor is inserted into the vertical tube of the chassis and acts on the central movement, and the control unit replaces the seat hoses.
The battery weighs only 850 grams and is mounted under the saddle; the declared autonomy is up to 50 km. This is not a real kit, but you will surely surprise your friends. Very high cost: 500 euros. The motors are in the wheels and the batteries are lithium. They are collected specifically for the client and sent by mail. Costa from 490 euros. Everyone has a common motorcycle, brakes with safety switches and a control unit. Nine does not supply batteries and does not mount the assembly.
4. After correcting the “egg”, in the same way as in the example with the figure eight, you need to press all the weight on the knitting needles to shrink them.
Editing "Umbrella"
There is such a thing as an “umbrella”. This is when the wheel rim has moved to one side and is not perfectly aligned with the center of the hub. The value of this offset will depend on the design of the frame itself and the type of brakes. This malfunction often occurs when the wheel is assembled incorrectly.
They cost from 249 euros. The promise of being able to go faster and then further than it has for a long time throws a lot of people off, but how do e-bikes work? How fast can they go and to what extent are they legal? And this may be partly due to concerns that "it's not really like riding a bike" or simply confusing their work. So it's okay to provide some clarity.
Prices and cycling electric bikes
To make it simple, this is an electric bike that can provide additional power when using pedals. Most e-bikes don't have a booster and don't think they help you while you're walking, so it leaves the idea of jumping up hills without pedaling. Electric bikes are typically manufactured using specific patterns and components designed to handle the stress produced by overly heavy and powerful powertrains.
The umbrella is straightened in the same way as the figure eight. On one side you need to tighten the spokes, and on the other, loosen them by the same amount of force. Unlike how to straighten a figure eight, when straightening an umbrella, the force should not fade, but should be uniform around the entire circumference.
Basic Rules
So, in order to know exactly how to fix figure eights on bicycle wheels, you need to remember a few rules.
Electric bike vs regular bike
So how do they compare? Well, first of all, an e-bike is heavier, more expensive and more complex than a regular bike. This can be a problem if you're loading the battery away from home or need to lift it for some reason, as it often weighs over 15kg. This means you'll be putting a lot of effort into pushing it over a hill without electrical assistance.
The components are more expensive than regular bike parts, and bike shops won't be able to help you if the problem is with the battery or motor, which means going back to the store where you bought it or hoping to find a nearby dealer willing to help you and ask for assistance with warranty claims.
Firstly, over-tightening the wheel spokes can damage the rim. If during the straightening process one or more of the knitting needles becomes overtightened, it is necessary to loosen them and the adjacent knitting needles, and then repeat the adjustment again.
Secondly, while riding, the spokes can break if they are too loose. If during the straightening process one or more wheel spokes become loose, you need to tighten them and then repeat the adjustment again.
How fast can an electric bike go?
Many e-bikes are capable of carrying loads and can greatly expand your horizons. This may mean having to do more bike tours in one day without having to wait for a lift. We're sorry to disappoint you, but you won't be able to break the sound barrier - in the UK, e-bikes have a legal speed limit of 15mph.
For example, Idaho classifies e-bikes as a "motorized bicycle" and has a speed limit of 30 mph, but forces you to obtain a license and insurance. On the other hand, California enforces a speed limit of 20 mph and does not require a license or insurance.
Among all the components of a bicycle, the most conservative is the spoked wheel. This type of wheel is installed on most bikes and is represented by a simple design: a central hub, a rim and spokes that connect the rim to the axis of rotation. During the operation of a bicycle, the wheel is subject to static, dynamic and changes, as a result of which changes in its shape can often occur.
Figure 8 deformation - what is it?
Curvature of bicycle wheels is associated with a violation of the rim configuration. In other words, the wheel is no longer round. A common option is the so-called figure eight, when there is a deviation of part (or several parts) of the rim from the plane of rotation. When rotated, these areas describe figure-eight trajectories around the central axis of rotation. When riding a bicycle, this defect is expressed in beating or wobbling while moving.
You can drive with eights, but it’s unlikely to be enjoyable. In addition, deformed wheels are less resistant to loads, which will lead to further curvature and complete unsuitability of the rim. Is it possible to fix a figure eight on a bicycle wheel yourself? Yes, and it's not difficult at all. Read further in the article to learn how this is done.
Determination of curvature on wheels
So, there is a suspicion that wheel deformation has occurred, and it remains to determine exactly in which specific place it formed. We turn the bike upside down and firmly fix it.
The first method of determination is visual, which allows you to find the location of large and medium-sized defects. The wheels need to be spun strongly, since at low speeds the eights, even the roughest ones, appear poorly. The rear wheel can be pedaled at all.
Curved areas move away from the plane of rotation to the side. At maximum deflection, the wheels must be quickly grabbed in this place. It is not easy to do this at high speeds, and your hand may slip, so it is better to resort to the next method.
The second method, contact, involves marking the damaged area. As an indicator, you can take a marker, or better yet, a regular chalk. Spin the wheel and slowly bring the chalk to the rim. First of all, he will strike along the edge of the convex figure eight. Once the “top” is determined, the wheel must be spun even more and the chalk continues to move closer. This determines the entire area of curvature. As soon as the chalk “runs” along the entire rim, the test can be considered complete. The figure eight lesion will clearly stand out as a thick line against the background of a pale stripe along the entire circumference.
This fixes the curvature of the rim
Eliminating bicycle wheel defects
Once the area where the wheel is bent is found, it’s time to start straightening it. Every owner of a two-wheeled vehicle can do this with his own hands, especially since such problems can arise with enviable regularity. There are two ways to eliminate the figure eight yourself:
- Power straightening, or “kneeling” as cyclists say.
- Method of tightening and loosening wheel spokes.
Power straightening
To remove the bend in this way, you will need to remove the wheel from the frame. In this case, you do not need to remove the tire with the tube. We turn the bulge towards us and grab the rim and tire on both sides. For moderate deformations, the optimal wheel grip is position “10” and “2”, that is, 60 degrees in both directions from the source of the figure eight. We place our knee on the most convex area and push with force away from ourselves.
What wheel position will best align the rim? If there is enough strength in the leg, then you can press on weight. An alternative option is to place the wheel vertically with the defective section facing up. Here you will need the help of a partner. He should press the wheel firmly to the floor. After straightening, the wheel is put on the frame and checked again by rotation.
This method cannot be called effective for several reasons:
- It is impossible to bend small bends.
- The rim may bend in the other direction.
- Inconvenient.
- Low accuracy.
- Not every rim can be subjected to simple force so easily.
This method works relatively well somewhere on the road, when a figure eight has suddenly formed due to a collision with a large obstacle and it urgently needs to be straightened out in order to get to its destination.
Adjusting the wheel spokes
Let's move on to the second option for eliminating the curvature of the rim. Adjusting the spokes consists of alternately loosening and tightening them. To work with them we need a special tool - a spoke wrench. This simple device is a round piece with square holes on the side for different sizes of knitting needles. You can buy a key without any problems at any bike shop.
Attention! You should only change the tension of the spokes with a spoke wrench, and in no case with pliers or adjustable wrenches!
Aligning the figure eight on a bicycle wheel requires patience, especially for those doing it for the first time. The tires must be completely removed.
First you should check the tension of all spokes. Often the rim becomes bent due to their general weakening. It’s easy to check: when the spokes are clearly loose and “listen” to your fingers like strings on a guitar, then they need to be tightened by about 1 turn over the entire wheel. If such a problem is not observed, then there is no need to touch anything: this can only worsen the eight.
We mark the defective area and proceed to the “central” knitting needle – the one located at the convexity. The knitting needle is turned in the direction opposite to the direction of the convexity. The spokes on the sides of it are weakened. With a figure eight on three knitting needles, the straightening scheme is as follows:
- Tighten the central one a quarter turn of the key.
- Loosening the outer spokes by an eighth of a turn: the loosening force is half the tension force in the center.
Eliminating the Little Eight
With a figure eight on 7 spokes, wheel repair is done as follows:
- The center is tightened half a turn.
- Loosen two spokes (second and third) on the sides by ¼ turn of the key.
- The fourth and fifth knitting needles are tightened by 1/8.
- The sixth and seventh (outermost) knitting needles are loosened by 1/8 of a turn.
Big Eight Straightening
Alternating tension and stretching is carried out in such a way that the outer spokes on the figure eight are weakened. To check the result, the wheel is hung on a bicycle and tested for residual curvature. If the figure eight is bent in the opposite direction, you should remove all the tension and increase the tightening torque on the loosening knitting needles and repeat the procedure again, but with less tightening and loosening forces.
Despite the fact that you have to tinker a lot, you can achieve the ideal result - straightening the wheel to an even circle. And if the first time the work may take too long, then the next time the eight occurs, the repair will go much faster. Now, if a defect appears on the wheel, you don’t have to put the bike aside, but quickly adjust the spokes yourself and resume your rides.
Among novice cyclists (and not so many) there is an opinion that straightening eights is something bordering on magic, and an ordinary person does not need to do it.
When my first £100 bike, which was falling apart, began to hit the rim with the vibration brakes set to maximum because of the eights, something had to be done.
The only bike shop in our town had just closed, and I was trying to get advice from my repair-savvy friends who had purchased similar junk bikes a little earlier than me.
Everyone agreed in one opinion: a specialist must rule the eights, otherwise “it will be worse.” What could be worse, when everything was already very bad for me, I didn’t understand. Therefore, I purchased a key for the spokes, surfed the Internet and began to put into practice the instructions I had read.
The most surprising thing for me was that I straightened the eights. From the very first time. And I hope with this article to prove to my readers, novice cycling enthusiasts, that this is not at all difficult. I don't want to say that I became a wheel guru. On the contrary, I don’t know how to assemble wheels from scratch - this requires experience and flair.
Let's begin. Of course, you don't have a wheel assembly stand, so the only tools you need are a spoke wrench and chalk. Don’t even try to twist the spoke nipples with pliers—you’ll tear off the edges.
1. If you have a regular figure eight, that is, lateral runout, then there is no need to remove the tire. Just turn the bike upside down and sit down next to me, the process will be long.
2. The first step is to determine the degree of curvature of the rim. If you have vibration brakes, then everything is simple - bring them to the minimum distance so that the rim only slightly touches the pad in the most protruding place. By spinning the wheel, you immediately you will see which way the rim is pointed.
If the brakes are disc, then press something like a screwdriver or pen into the stays and bring it to the rim. At this stage we are simply looking at how strong the curvature is and in which direction.
3. Take the chalk, and resting your hand on the feathers, lean it with force against the most protruding section of the rim. Twist slowly, making sure to keep your hand holding the chalk still. Thus, it turns out that in the place of greatest curvature the chalk trace is most pronounced, losing strength and completely disappearing towards the edges of the figure eight.
4. Determine the center of the figure eight, and find the most central spoke. If the rim is pulled to the right, then this spoke will attach to the right side of the hub, and vice versa.
5. Logic dictates that the direction in which the rim went needs to be weakened. This is correct, but the trick is that the opposite side must be pulled at the same time with exactly the same force. If this is not done, the rim may move in a radial direction, and it will be more difficult to straighten it.
6. Loosen the central figure eight spoke (in our case, the one on the right side of the hub) by half a turn. The trick: you always need to do this with knitting needles: if you want to turn it half a turn, then turn it three-quarters and return it a quarter back. This is necessary in order to so that the nipple “settles”.
7. On each side of the central knitting needle (we have the right one, since the figure eight is right) there will be two left knitting needles. Pull them tight exactly the same number of revolutions.
8. Move further to the edges of the figure eight (just don’t get confused which knitting needles you’ve already touched). But with each new “layer” of spokes reduce the number of revolutions. If, for example, you started with half a turn, then you can finish with 1/8.
9. Now spin the wheel, press the chalk again and see what happens. It won't work out very well at first. If you overdid it, then eight can take the opposite direction, it can also break up into two small eights.
10.Continue in the same spirit until you catch everything. For disc brakes, you don’t have to try too hard: insignificant eights can only influence the opinion of aesthetes. On vibration brakes, you need to bring the rim to perfect condition.
11. When, after a long time, you managed to achieve your goal, remove the wheel from the frame, remove the eccentric and lay it flat on the floor. With the hub resting on the floor, grab the rim with both hands and press all your weight onto the wheel. Then take another place on the rim and repeat. Then turn the wheel over and start all over again.
You may hear a crash - don't be alarmed. these are the knitting needles shrinking. After such a procedure, you need to check again for eights, and if something appears, then correct it again and “sit it down.”
After all these operations, you will again have a smooth wheel, like one from a store. No need to go to a bike mechanic, waste time and money. Gradually, you will become so adept at editing eights that you will do it literally in five minutes, without any chalk, by eye.
Radial runout (ellipse, egg)
Editing an eight, popularly called an “egg,” is somewhat more difficult.
1. First of all, remove the tire to make sure that the curve is the rim and not the rubber, as is often the case.
2. On an inverted bicycle, spin the wheel and place an object on top, note with chalk that area of the rim that lifts this object. Try to localize the very center, the main spoke.
3. Now you have to simultaneously monitor three directions: start loosening the tension starting from the central spoke, tighten the adjacent two spokes exactly the same number of turns so that there is no figure eight and tighten the spokes at the opposite end of the wheel to prevent the egg from appearing elsewhere.
It seems very difficult (and it is), and all you need is experience. You need to understand that you won’t screw up anything particularly terrible, and you can always start all over again by loosening and then evenly tightening all the knitting needles.
4. Exactly the same as in the case of eight. after straightening the egg need to “shrink” the knitting needles, pressing on them with all his weight.
Editing "Umbrella"
There is also such a concept - “umbrella”. Look, most likely, the rim of your wheel is not perfectly exactly in the middle of the hub, but is shifted to one side. This is called an “umbrella”. The values of this offset depend on the type of brakes and frame design.
You need to edit the “umbrella” in the same way as figure eights - tighten the knitting needles on one side, and loosen the knitting needles on the other side by the same force. Only here, unlike editing figure eights, the effort should not fade, but stay even all the way around.
How to change a broken knitting needle
Spokes tend to break, so when going on a hike, even if it’s completely asphalt, it makes sense to take spare heels with you. Please note that if the spoke breaks on the side on which the cassette is installed, it will have to be removed. This means that you must at least have a special slotted and adjustable wrench. The whip, if necessary, can be replaced with a rag.
1. To change the spoke, you'll have to remove the tire. Also remove the rim tape (which serves to protect the inner tube from the spoke holes in the rim). Pull the broken knitting needle up.
2.Insert a new spoke into the spoke hole of the hub.. To reach it to the hole in the rim, you will have to bend it thoroughly - don’t panic, it’s essentially a wire, again it will become straight under tension.
3. Study the pattern of the knitting needles, your new one should fit exactly the same - repeat the same algorithm, as on other knitting needles.
4. Insert the nipple from above, screw it into the thread of the spoke, pull. If several are broken, then do the same work.
5. Align the figure eights and “shrink” the spokes.
If the spokes constantly fly out, and even on one side, then the problem here may be (besides overload) that some spokes are too tight and take on more load.
Need a strain gauge, a device that measures the tension of the spokes, it is available in any bicycle workshop. If you are in the field, then release all the knitting needles and begin to tighten them evenly (by touch).
It happens that the rim is very crooked, and in order to straighten the figure eight, you have to strongly tighten the spokes on one side - they fly out when a certain load threshold is exceeded. Then it’s better to put up with some eight.
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Wheel is one of the most important parts of the bicycle. If you take two bicycle- one is super-duper and the other is a cheap ten-speed one - and change the wheels on them, then the cheap one will be faster. But finding good wheels is not so easy. Yes and that wheel is balanced at the time of purchase does not guarantee that it will remain so during operation.
The process of wheel alignment itself requires high qualifications and, as a result, a lot of experience. Many professional riders do almost all of their bike tuning themselves, but leave wheel tuning to the professionals. Therefore, you must be prepared for the fact that you may not be able to do the adjustment well the first time.
To work, you will need a special key for spokes (more precisely, for spoke nipples). Nipples come in different sizes: 3.22 mm, 3.3 mm, 3.45 mm, 3.96 mm. It is important that the key fits exactly, otherwise it will slip.
This is what spoke keys look like
It is advisable, but not necessary, to have a special wheel truing machine and a tool for measuring force spoke tension. And it’s really great if you have a special tool for centering the rim relative to the hub.
Wheel straightening machine
If you do not have a special machine, then you can adjust the wheel directly on the bike, using the rim brake pads to assess deformation. In this case, you need to especially carefully check how level the wheel is and how the brakes work.
Usually actions are described in steps: the first step, the second, etc. In this case, most of all, some operations will need to be repeated several times. It is quite possible that after correcting the ovoidity (radial displacement), the lateral displacement will have to be corrected again, or vice versa.
There are several criteria for evaluation adjustments:
Lateral displacement
Radial offset
Spoke tension force
Centering relative to the bushing
Correction of all these displacements occurs by tightening the spoke (turning the nipple clockwise) or loosening the spoke (counterclockwise). In this case, only the nipple rotates, the spoke itself does not rotate.
The spokes on the right pull the rim to the right. Those on the left are to the left. If the spokes are tighter on one side, then the rim will be “skewed” in this place. It is worth paying attention to the following important point: the spoke affects not only the section of the rim to which it is attached, but also the neighboring ones (but to a lesser extent).
The tension of one spoke affects adjacent areas of the rim
Since few people have a wheel straightening machine, the following description is focused on the option of installing a wheel on a bicycle. Naturally, before adjusting the rim, you need to remove the tire and tube. (There should also be a flipper - a strip that protects the camera from the spokes; it can be immediately removed).
Spoke tension force
You can start inspecting the wheel with the tension of the spokes. If there are knitting needles that are not tensioned at all, you need to tighten them.
You can measure the tension of the spokes using a special tool. Each wheel has its own recommended values. The spokes of the rear wheel are always pulled tighter than the spokes of the front wheel.
Analogue and digital spoke tension meters
Perhaps experienced mechanics can tell the tension by sound or feel. But I think this is not the most reliable option.
Many specialist bicycle mechanics do not even know how to properly assemble wheels that can be ridden for a long time without adjustment. But even qualified mechanics do not have enough time to do thorough work and skip some operations, resulting in reduced quality and reliability. Therefore, it is best to figure it out and assemble the wheels yourself. This is done as follows:
A. Set
1. Lubricate the spoke threads and rim where they contact the nipples with oil. Without this, it is impossible to tighten the spokes tightly enough.
2. If the holes on the hub flanges are countersunk on only one side, then the spoke heads must be on the non-countersunk side, because The countersink is designed to bend the spoke.
3. Insert nine spokes into one flange so that there is a free hole between them and so that the heads are on the outside. If it's a rear wheel, start with the right (threaded) part of the hub.
4. Take the rim, find among the holes offset to the right the one closest to the right of the valve hole.
5. Insert the first spoke into this hole and screw the nipple two turns. This spoke is called a key spoke.
6. Count four holes clockwise from the key spoke, insert the next spoke and screw in the nipple.
7. Check what you have done to ensure that the following conditions are met:
A. The threaded part of the bushing faces the operator;
b. The spoke closest to the valve hole is to the right of it;
With. Both spokes connect the right side of the rim to the right hub flange:
d. There are three free holes between the spokes.
8. If all these conditions are met, secure the remaining seven spokes using every fourth hole in the rim.
9. Turn the wheel over. Now it is facing you with its left side. Next, you need to connect nine spokes to the rim, inserted from the outside into the left flange.
10. Find the key spoke. It is located to the left of the valve hole or through one nipple hole.
The tenth spoke should be next to the key one to the right (to the left in the original) of the valve hole. In this case, the tenth spoke should not intersect the key spoke.
11. After installing the tenth spoke, the remaining eight spokes of the left flange are assembled in the above sequence.
12. Now half of the knitting needles have already been cast on. In the case of a rear wheel, these spokes are called drive spokes. Their heads should be on the outside of flange 2. If you look at the rim, pairs of free holes and pairs of holes with nipples should alternate along the entire circumference. The nipples should only be turned a few turns.
13. We move on to the tensioning spokes, the heads of which should be on the inside of the flange. We thread one tensioning spoke into the hole in the flange and tighten the sleeve so that the already assembled spokes receive a direction as close as possible to the tangent relative to the flanges. For the rear wheel, grab the hub by the threaded part and turn it clockwise. The first tensioning spoke crosses the three already assembled drive spokes (counting only those that belong to the same flange). Each tensioning spoke should run outside the first two spokes it intersects and inward under the third one it intersects.
When installing the first nine tension spokes, be sure to insert them into the appropriate holes on the rim, i.e. into those that are offset towards their flange.
14. The remaining tension knitting needles are cast in the same way. In this case, it may turn out that the ends of some spokes do not reach the nipple holes. This is usually caused by one or more of the nipples getting caught with their noses on the rim and not going through the holes. If this is not the reason, then you have turned the nipples too far, which, until all the spokes are assembled, should be turned no more than two turns.
B. Pre-tension
15. Before tightening the spokes, you need to wrap all the nipples to the same depth. For example, with long knitting needles so that their ends are flush with the splines of the nipples. If the spokes are short for this purpose, it is enough that the same number of threaded turns is visible on all spokes. Even screwing of the nipples is very important because... significantly simplifies the entire further process. In this case, the spokes should not yet be tensioned.
16. In the case of the rear wheel, now it's time to work on the umbrella. The right spokes should have more tension than the left ones. For most bushings, it is sufficient as a first approximation to tighten all right-hand nipples an additional 3.5 turns.
17. We proceed to uniform tension of the spokes. Starting from the valve hole, screw each nipple one turn. If there is a lot of slack left in the knitting needles, add one turn at a time. In this case, after passing three quarters of the rim, it may turn out that it becomes difficult to turn the nipples. This means that the second turn is excessive and all nipples tightened in the second turn should be returned to their original position, i.e. unscrew one turn. After this, we start again from the valve hole and screw in all the nipples half a turn.
18. We install the wheel on the machine and see which unevenness of the rim is greater - vertical (ellipse) or horizontal (figure eight). You always need to edit the larger one.
C. Editing the figure eight
19. Let's say we're starting with a figure eight, and the worst part of the rim is offset to the right at the four-spoke section. Two of them go to the right flange and two to the left. Turn the left nipples a quarter of a turn, and release the right ones the same amount, this section of the rim will move to the left. However, the tension of the spokes does not change, since the same number of spokes were loosened as they were tightened, and by the same amount. If the rim section is shorter, for example, of three spokes - one left and two right, you can tighten the left spoke half a turn, and release each of the right spokes a quarter turn. This is the principle of wheel balancing, thanks to which it is possible to eliminate horizontal runout without worsening the vertical one.
20. What has been done may not be enough to completely correct this unevenness, but if there is an improvement, you should not try to immediately achieve the final result. Now we find the worst deviation of the rim to the left and tighten it. Thus, moving from one side to the other, we maintain the predefined umbrella. Do not try to straighten the figure eight better than 3mm at this stage. This is done during final adjustment after editing the umbrella and ellipse.
D. Editing an ellipse
21. Find the section of the rim furthest from the hub. By tensioning the spokes in this place they bring him closer to her. This increases the rigidity of the entire wheel. The principle of balance described above applies here too. Let's assume that the found area has three nipples - two left and one right. If you tighten the two left spokes by half a turn each, and the right one by one turn, the rim lip will retract without disturbing the tension uniformity. In this way, you can straighten the ellipse without noticeably worsening the figure eight.
22. Find the next section of the rim that is furthest away from concentricity and pull it out in the manner described. Then the next section, and so on. Each time the wheel becomes closer to the circle, the spoke becomes tighter.
23. To what extent should the knitting needles be tightened? The best thing is to be as rigid as possible until the edges of the nipples begin to be eaten away - the tension of the spokes gives the wheel strength. While driving at any given moment, the various forces applied to one spokes are added, those applied to others are subtracted. The spokes must have sufficient tension so that if the applied forces are released, the spoke will never lose tension. Successive cycles of tension and sagging lead to fracture.
24. If the wheel is already round and the spoke tension is insufficient, tighten all nipples the same amount (for example, half a turn) and check the wheel again for concentricity.
25. Straightening an ellipse requires more tightening than a figure eight, and in this case you can tighten the spokes by half a turn or even a whole turn at a time. For preliminary editing of the figure eight - a quarter and half a turn, for precise editing - 1/8 and 1/4 turns.
E. Umbrella
26. The rear wheel umbrella should be located in a plane passing through the middle of the distance between the tips of the rear hub. Otherwise, the bike will tend to turn to the side.
27. The easiest way to check the correctness of the umbrella is by the distance from the rim to the brake pads. This distance is measured with the wheel in normal position and with the right end of the axle inserted into the left end (i.e., the wheel is inverted). In both cases the distance should be the same. However, this method is only suitable if the axle is not bent.
28. To adjust the umbrella, with the knitting needles fully tensioned to the same amount, release the nipple on one side and tighten the nipple on the other side (usually 1/4 turn). If the spokes are not very tight, you can only tighten the nipple on the side where you want to move the rim. At the same time, the rigidity of the entire wheel will increase.
F. Final Setup
29. The final adjustment consists of sequentially repeating all three processes, straightening the ellipse, figure eight and umbrella. Adjusting one can affect the others, so at any given moment you need to work on what is most different from the norm.
G. Final tension
30. Now you should have a wheel that is no different from the serial factory one: all three parameters are within normal limits, the spokes are sufficiently tensioned. Many mechanics would consider the job complete. However, when driving, such a wheel will quickly go out of whack. The fact is that the heads of the spokes have not yet completely entered the holes in the flanges, and the nipples have not yet fully entered the holes in the rim. When driving, they begin to “settle” more tightly and upset the balance of the wheel.
31. There are several ways to shrink knitting needles. For example: take the wheel in both hands, press hard on the spokes where they intersect, turn the wheel and do the same with the next four spokes, and so on around the entire circumference of the wheel. In this case, creaks and crackles will be heard, that is, the sound of the knitting needles shrinking. After this procedure, the wheel may become slightly abnormal. Adjust it again and repeat squeezing the spokes. Continue the entire process until it no longer affects the rim and the sound stops.
32. There is another reason why the wheel quickly goes out of whack. This is the twisting of the knitting needles. When pulling tight, turning the nipple may initially twist, i.e. turn the spoke instead of pulling it up the thread. For example, you want to tighten a spoke a quarter turn. In this case, the following happens not so rarely: first, at one-eighth of a turn, the spoke itself rotates along with the nipple, then the thread feeds and pulls the spoke the remaining 1/8 of a turn. After some time, the twisted knitting needle gives back and unwinds the tightening in the nipple. The easiest way to get rid of this is to tighten the nipple 3/8 of a turn and then loosen 1/8, so you get a clean 1/4 turn of tightening without twisting. With some experience, you will be able to feel when the knitting needle begins to twist. Before tightening, a beginner can put marks on all the knitting needles with a felt-tip pen, which will rotate when twisted.
33. Once the wheel is fully balanced, make sure that the ends of the spokes do not protrude above the rim. Otherwise, they need to be cut down.
34. Remove any remaining grease that will damage the monotubes or chambers!
35. When adjusting the wheel, never rush. If you are tired, put aside work and return to it only with a fresh mind.
